Expecting kittens

* Early on, there are few outward signs of pregnancy.
* The cat may adopt a more serene disposition.
* Sensible nesting activity begins.

Pregnancy in cats lasts about nine weeks, but during the first half of that time a typical expectant cat gives few clues that she is pregnant. She hunts, rests, and generally behaves normally.

Under the influence of progesterone, the hormone of pregnancy, and with an ever increasing weight in her abdomen, she soon moderates her behavior, gradually reducing her activity level and resting more.

Is my cat pregnant?
If you think your cat might be pregnant, the first check her nipples. These become more prominent and pinker by three weeks of gestation. By four to five weeks after conception, your vet will be able to feel golf-ball sized swellings in her abdomen. At this time the developing fetuses are usually quite easy to count. Shortly afterward, her belly becomes a visibly enlarged.

Multiple fathers
Unplanned breeding of pedigree females by both pedigree and non-pedigree males, producing litters of both purebred and crossbred kittens, confirmed what breeders had long expected: a litter may be sired by several males. This could have a survival potential for the offspring.

In large cats, such as the lion, when a new male takes over a pride, it is not uncommon for him to kill all cubs sired by the previous dominant male.

The frequency of infanticide in domestic cats is unknown, but at least one highly respected world authority, zoologist David MacDonald of Oxford University, England, has observed a strange male cat enter a communal nest among bales of hay and kill six kittens belonging to three mothers before the cries of the survivors brought the mothers running back.

Risks during pregnancy
The greatest risk to unborn kittens occurs during the first three weeks of development in the womb. Both drugs and infections might seriously impair healthy development. If, for example, the mother is exposed to feline infectious enteritis (FIE, or panleukopenia) at this time, the surviving kittens will be born with severe brain damage. Even exposure to live panleukopenia vaccine is dangerous. Cats should be vaccinated before they are pregnant, to increase the amount of passive protection they pass in the first milk to their kittens.

Never vaccinate pregnant cats to increase the level of inherited protection. Never vaccinate other cats in the household of a pregnant cat. Live vaccine virus can be shed by vaccinated cats and affect the pregnant cat’s fetuses.

Pregnancy and hormones
During pregnancy, the production of progesterone rapidly increases, peaking at around the 35th day after conception. This induces the more serene disposition of pregnancy. At the same time, the belly starts becoming visibly more rotund.

Pregnancy can be as short as 57 days or as long as 70 days, but a few days before birth the female becomes restless and searches out her chosen shelter.

She rearranges her bedding material and spends increasing amounts of time in her chosen nest. This impregnates the region with her own scent, something that will eventually help her kittens orient themselves toward home.

As birth approaches, the mother loses her appetite and restlessly paces in the nest until contractions begin.

Pregnancy checklist
1. Do not even think of breeding from your cat unless you know you can find homes for the resulting litter.
2. Do not breed from your cat until she is emotionally as well as physically mature.
3. Ensure that your cat is well nourished during pregnancy, and especially after, during her period of milk production.
4. Test your cat and the proposed father, to ensure they are not carriers of viral diseases such as FIV or FeLV.
5. Do not let your cat "follow nature’s course" and breed with a feral tom. Feral toms are excellent breeders. They are also the most likely source of life-threatening infections such as FIV, FeLV, and feline infectious peritonitis (FIP)

Cats do not become visibly pregnant until after about five weeks. Shortly before this time, your vet will be able to tell you how large the litter will be.

A few days before birth, a pregnant cat will begin looking for a good nest, which she will scent-mark. This will help her newborns recognize home.

Why Your Cat Sucks on Wool

Sucking, and wool sucking in particular, is a common behaviour in cats. While the causes are unknown, it is most often seen in Siamese or Burmese cats, suggesting that there may be a genetic basis to this behaviour.

A possible cause may be suckling deprivation as a kitten. Most cats in the wild will normally suckle for six months or more, unlike domesticated cats that are weaned from their mothers by two months of age. It is thought that some cats will suck on inanimate objects such as wool, blankets, or other objects in order to compensate for this reduced amount of suckling.

Punishment is ineffective. The only effective treatment so far for stopping suckling of inanimate objects is to apply noxious-tasting substances such as cologne, pepper sauce or a commercial repellant (e.g. Variton spray, available from your veterinarian) to these objects. Initially, only a few "treated" objects should be made available to your cat. Once your cat has learned that these objects have an unpleasant taste to them, other "untreated" objects can be sprayed with a noxious substance and left lying accessible to your cat. Eventually, your cat will learn to stop this behaviour. If the behaviour persists, you should consult your veterinarian for further advice

Thinking of getting a cat?

Why do people choose cats over other pets?

Cats are the most prevalent domesticated animal, 63 million of them are kept as pets around the world! Cats are wonderful pets if you get to know them, spend time with them, and treat them right. In actuality there is a multitude of reasons for choosing a cat as your primary pet including (but not limited to):


Cats are fairly quiet pets in comparison to dogs

Cats are smaller animals

Cats bury their own waste and thus don't 'need' to be walked or let outside

Cats require less grooming than dogs

Cats are fairly independent animals, although they welcome and thrive on your attention and will grow and blossom in a home where they are cuddled and talked to often

Cats are fairly non-aggressive

Cats are less costly than dogs
Cats can live in smaller, inside places like apartments or condos

Cats require little exercise when compared to dogs

Cats require minimal training

Why should I get a cat/kitten?

Now that we know why cats are good pets let's talk about if you should get a cat. There are a few questions that you need to ask yourself before adopting a cat or kitten. If you answer no to any of them please think long and hard about adopting. Don't adopt if you can not properly take care of your pet, as it is very cruel to that animal!


Is there enough room in my home? - Although cats require less room than dogs they still need ample room to roam, run, jump and play. Any home smaller than about 700 sq. feet is too small for one cat to live in (and 900 sq feet is about the minimum for two).


Can I deal with a litterbox and potential accidents? - Although cats are very clean animals and instinctually bury their waste, you still need to clean out their litterbox. And as your cat is adjusting to his/her box, if your cat is stressed, if something changes about his/her box (placement or litter type) or if your cat gets ill; he/she may have an accident or two. You must ask yourself, are you willing to clean out the litterbox at least once a day (more often for larger and multiple cats) and deal with potential accidents that are bound to occur at some point in your pet's life?


Can you afford a cat? - Cats are cheaper pets than dogs but you will still need to afford the following: food, treats, bowls, litter, litterbox, scooper, scratching post, cat bed, toys, cat carriers, brushes and grooming tools, collar, identification tag, and medical care. Your cat needs, at minimum, all of the above. Many people get cats and at the first sign of medical expense dump the cat off at the shelter. Be prepared for medical expenses (you can even purchase pet health insurance), you never know when a cat will get ill. And if you can't afford or aren't willing to pay for medical expenses, if and when it happens, don't get a cat. Too many people wait until the last possible second before taking a cat to the vet. This denial of proper medical attention to save a few bucks is cruel to the animal and usually end up costing more as by the time the cat is at the vet the cat is very, very ill.


Do you have time to spend at least 2 hours a day with your pet? - Cats need quality time with you and need to play, be nurtured and be exercised. Plan on spending at minimum 2 hours/day with your cat. If you are the type that will never be home or will be gone every weekend, don't get a cat (get a hamster instead).


Can you deal with training your cat and possibly a few bad behaviors? - Don't get us wrong, cats are very low maintenance. Cats are fairly easily trained and many cats come to us already knowledgeable about how to act, use a litterbox, use a scratching post etc.; however, you may need to spend some time training your pet and/or dealing with the consequences of bad behaviors if you don't train your pet. If your personality can't deal with this and will get angry at the cat rather than disliking the behavior and fixing that then you need to think long and hard about getting any pet.


Can you deal with pet hair? - Cats are hairy and they shed. Are you ready to deal with cat hair on the couch and such? As with any pet the idea of keeping your house immaculate, although possible, will take a little more work.


Can you keep your cat indoors? - Of course you can take your cat out on walks, or create a fenced in area in your backyard for your cat to play in, but for the safety and longevity of your pet it is best to keep him/her as in indoor animal. For the most part indoor cats live much longer lives than outdoor-only cats, this is due to the high risk of disease (many of which there are no vaccines for), poor eating habits, assault from other animals and humans, and other unknowns that outdoor cats face. Some studies report that indoor-only cats live on average 12 years while outdoor-only cats only live on average 3 years.


Can you deal with your furniture potentially getting clawed or damaged? - You can and should train your cat to not claw furniture (rather than getting your cat declawed which is considered cruel by many veterinarians and cat lovers), however, if you don't train your cat properly this can happen.


Can you deal with illness or death? - At some time point your pet may get ill and unfortunately will eventually die. Are you willing to deal with such an illness or death emotionally and financially?

Cats can bring so much in to your life. They are wonderful, intelligent, expressive creatures who can bring you vast amounts of joy and happiness. It is shown that people (especially seniors) with pets have lower blood pressure, are happier, and live longer. However, if you answered no to any of the above questions we recommend NOT getting a cat. As with any new roommate in your home there are compromises that will need to be made. If you are not willing to deal with some of the compromises with a cat then you should not get one.

Cat Breeds

Purebred dogs are very popular. They are carefully bred for personality and appearance. Many people are devotees of specific breeds, and it is not uncommon to see purebred dogs. What most people don’t realize is that cats have also been selectively bred. Sure, we’ve all heard of Siamese and Persians, but pet cats, unlike dogs, are not often chosen based on breed. This article will give you a short introduction to some common cat breeds, and to the unique personalities and appearances that they have been specifically bred for.

The Persian lives the envious life of a couch potato. They are quiet cats with limited activity needs. However, the long, silky coat that they are renowned for requires a fair bit of maintenance, to avoid matting. They come in lots of colours, and have a flat face and large heads. The flattened nose, also found in dogs such as the Boxer and Pug, may predispose these cats to respiratory problems later in life. This cat is ideal for an owner who cannot be home a lot and wants an absolutely beautiful couch companion.

The Himalayan Persian, commonly simply called the Himalayan, mixes the long coat of the Persian with the colour of the Siamese. This gives you a cat that looks like a Persian but has pointed colouring. Pointed colouring is a heat-sensitive reaction where the fur of the face, ears, tail, and feet are a darker colour than the rest of the body. This cat is outgoing but still fairly quiet, like the Persian.

The Ragdoll has an interesting history. It has been bred intensively to produce a very relaxed disposition; the initial claim was that these animals were so gentle and placid that they went limp (like a Ragdoll) when you picked them up. They have a medium-long coat that requires less maintenance than the Persian or Himalayan. They also have a rounder face, and have pointed colouring. Reaching weights ranging from ten to twenty pounds, these cats are the gentle giants of the cat breeds.

The Maine Coon is also widely known for its luxurious coat. The coat has a texture that is unique to this breed, and is heavy, low maintenance, and water repellent, which reflects its farm-cat background. This breed also has a unique ‘trill’, in addition to the other forms of vocalization. They are big cats, rivalling the Ragdoll in size. These cats tend to be the favorite breed of men, as they are good companions but not overly demanding of affection.

Munchkins are a very interesting breed. To look at them, they are reminiscent of Daschund dogs. They have a normal-sized body with extremely short legs. This defect is inherited. They were also bred for their playfulness and eternal kitten appearance. Munchkins are prone to spinal problems, such as lordosis. Lordosis is excessive downward curve of the spine that can be very painful and incompatible with motion. This breed is coveted by people who want a ‘cute’ cat, but any potential owner should be aware of the health problems that may be associated with this defect.

Manx are another unusual-looking breed. They have no (or very little) tail, and their hind legs are longer than their front legs. Therefore, these cats tend to ‘bunny-hop’ when they run. Everything about them is round: their bodies, eyes, rump, head, and paws. They are also found as a long-haired cat, called the ‘Cymric’. Like with the Munchkins, this defect comes at a price. Manx are prone to spinal, gait, bowl, and bladder problems. In some circumstances, in both breeds, these problems can be so bad that the kittens need to be euthanized. These cats are prized for their appearance and playful, even-tempered personality.

The Abyssinian is the most affectionate cat that we have discussed so far. It needs, and demands, play time and attention. They are a distinctive glorious rich rust colour, termed ‘ticked’. They have little tufts of hair on the tips of their ears and are built like an average cat in size and shape. This breed is recommended for people who are looking for a very interactive and social cat.

The Siamese is a cat of legends! It is known for its pointed colouring and slanting eyes. Over the past century, the Siamese has been increasingly bred for long, fine features, especially in the legs and head. These cats are a handful! They are the most gregarious and talkative breed out there. The Siamese is a cat for someone who is willing to put extra time and attention into a pet cat.

Sphinx cats still exist; they are not merely myth! These ‘hairless’ cats are still somewhat of a rarity. They are not actually hairless, but are in fact covered by fuzz that gives them a suede-like feel. They are mischievous and playful, but the real effort comes in maintaining the health of these cats. Because they have no fur, their skin needs special daily maintenance, and they are very prone to heat and cold. Therefore, these are strictly indoor cats. The large eyes and ears add to the exotic look of these cats. They are only for true devotees of the breed, as they require extra care.

Perhaps, next time you consider getting a cat, you will think about getting a purebred. Purebred cats have a fairly predictable personality and appearance. There are many breeds out there and this was just a short introduction. You can find more information about cat breeds through your local veterinarian or on breed websites. You can also adopt a purebred cat through the many rescue groups in Canada and the USA that specialize in specific cat breeds.

Train a Cat to Use a Toilet

Cats are adorable creatures - all cat lovers will agree with that. They make excellent human companions and, like dogs, are also considered by many as man's best friend. Cute, cuddly, and companionable, these domesticated felines can easily melt anybody's heart. They can entertain you with their sweet little tricks and make you laugh out loud with their crazy antics. Yes, cats are absolutely charming, but not all the time. You have to admit, endearing as they are, cats also do things that can annoy you out of your wits such as scratching you wood furniture, biting your curtain tassels, and, at worst, pooping on your brand new carpet.

The good news is that cats are smart and curious animals. For this reason, they can be trained to do several things that could make your life easier. Just one of the things you can teach your little feline friend to do is to use the toilet. If you want your cat to be like Jack Byrnes' Himalayan cat in "Meet the Parents" then you should start thinking about training your kitty to use the toilet now. As opposed to what some people think, potty training cats is not hard to do. All you need is plenty of patience and a strong determination. And oh, you will also need a litter box and a roll of wax paper.

If your cat already knows how to use the litter box, then that makes the task of getting them to use the toilet 50% easier. Since cats are clean creatures by nature, chances are that they will find pooping in the toilet more desirable than what they were initially accustomed to. The trick in potty training a cat is to do it gradually. Depending on your cat's personality, the process of toilet training can take several days to a few weeks. There's no point in hastening the training because cats take time to learn and get used to the new pooping system.

Start the potty training by moving your cat's litter box near a toilet. After you do this, make sure your cat knows where to find its litter box. Let your cat become familiar with the new location of its litter box. After you have done this, the next thing to do is to move the litter box inch by inch towards the toilet bowl for the subsequent days until it ends up right next to the bowl. While inching the litter box towards the toilet bowl, you should also reduce the amount of litter used bit by bit.

The next goal is to get the cat to sit on the toilet bowl. You can do this by progressively adding a book under a litter box until it's already elevated to the same height as the toilet bowl. When you've already done this, raise the toilet seat and tape a sheet of wax paper over it. The wax paper should be big enough to cover the hole. Then, lower the seat and gradually move the litter box an inch towards the seat over the following days. Do this until the litter box is right over the toilet seat. Don't forget to reduce the amount of litter every time you move the litter box towards the seat until there's already none left. When you've done this, discard the box and cut an inch-wide hole in the middle of the wax paper. In the succeeding days, gradually widen the wax paper's hole until it becomes as big as that of the toilet seat. By the time you are done with this last step, congratulations, you now have a toilet-trained cat.

White Cats

White cats, like all white animals in general, are both valuable – and vulnerable. The white of their coat is not a real colour but rather the absence of colour, which also means absence of protection from the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays. It is the variety and distribution of natural “dyes” in an animal’s skin and fur that explain different coat colours and patterns. One of these dyes is melanin, the chief protector of skin against ultraviolet radiation. The skin of white cats has either no melanin at all or very little of it, which is why they are far more vulnerable to sunburn and cancer of the skin than coloured cats. The “classical” wild-type cat is a brown tabby, which combines optimal protection from the sun with a camouflage pattern that hides it from predators. When we consider that cats evolved as desert animals that spend much of their time under the blazing sun, it is fascinating that white cats exist at all. They are clearly an example of how centuries of breeding have produced animals that are both stunningly beautiful and dependent on humans for their continued survival and protection.

Such protection involves, first and foremost, keeping a white cat out of the sun or limiting its exposure to the sun. The best way to do this is to raise a white kitten strictly indoors so that it is not tempted to go outside as an adult. Spaying or neutering the cat is part and parcel of an indoor lifestyle since intact animals are driven to go outside in search of a partner, and torment themselves and their owners when confined indoors. However, if a white cat has been adopted as an adult and is already used to spending time outdoors, chances are that it will be miserable and restless if not allowed to do so, especially in the short term. If the cat is happy to simply be outdoors and does not insist on roaming, it can be tethered to a tree or post in a shaded area and supervised as it watches birds and chills out. For cats that are used to coming and going, applying sun-block cream to the ear rims as well as the nose, eyelids and lips can go a long way toward protection, if the owner is able to do this and the cat does not protest. If possible, the cat’s outdoor time should be restricted to late afternoon and evening hours, avoiding the morning and early afternoon when the sun is at its harshest.

Another method tried by some owners is tattooing ear rims, the area most likely to develop sunburn and skin cancer. A veterinarian may inject artificial dye in place of the protective melanin which white cats lack. This method has at least two drawbacks. First, the dye is injected in spots and does not spread evenly, with the skin between the spots remaining unprotected. Secondly, the dye ends up under the surface layer of the skin, the layer most susceptible to sunburn and cancer, which is thereby left unprotected.

In the absence of protection, and often in spite of it, white cats exposed to the sun will almost certainly develop sunburns which, with repeated exposure, will likely become cancerous. Signs to look for are reddened bumps on the ear rims or around the nose, eyes and lips. Unlike insect bites or allergic reactions, these bumps are seldom if at all itchy. The sooner such a cat is treated by a veterinarian, the better the chances of controlling the skin cancer, since this form of skin cancer often responds well to treatment. This is, of course, only a temporary solution if the cat remains exposed to the sun.

Not all white cats are created equal. Many come in “shades” of white. While most of their coat is indeed white, the fur on the tips of their ears and around the face and feet can be a pale cream or orange. This would be an extreme case of a point pattern, with Siamese and Himalayan cats representing the classical pattern. Interestingly, the darker colour at the tips of the ears, nose and feet in these cats develops because of lower body temperature over those areas. Such “off-white” cats can sometimes develop dark spots on their lips or nose, especially at a young age. This is very common among orange cats, and is normal as long as these spots are flat and the skin is otherwise unchanged. Other cats can be a very light, silvery gray with darker fur around their eyes; this is common in Persian cats.

Cats with a pure snow-white coat are a varied population based on their eye colour. For instance, a white cat with blue eyes is missing surface “dye” in its eyes as well as its coat: blue eyes in an adult cat mean lack of colour in the upper layers of the iris. What appears blue is really black, the result of the melanin (black dye) in the deeper layer of the iris without overlay of other colours in the top layers. Such cats are also usually deaf, since the gene responsible for iris colour goes hand in hand with the gene responsible for hearing. Deaf cats need extra care for obvious reasons: outside of their home, they are vulnerable to approaching dangers such as cars or aggressive dogs or other predators. If they go outside, they must be walked on a leash or tethered and kept under very close supervision. In addition, deaf cats make poor mothers since they cannot hear the mewing of their kittens.

The kittens of two white blue-eyed cats do not always resemble their parents: some can have coloured fur as well as coloured eyes. Likewise, two coloured cats whose ancestors included white cats can have white kittens among their offspring. These seemingly unexpected results are due to the way genes come together to make a new generation of animals. Your veterinarian or an experienced and reputable breeder will be able to give you an idea of what colours of kittens to expect from two cats whose ancestry is known.

Many white cats have a blue and a green eye. Unlike blue, green means presence of colour; hence these cats are deaf in only one ear – but it is not necessarily on the same side as the blue eye. Other white cats have orange eyes, which is also due to a colour in the upper layers of the eye, above the black melanin. Albinos, or animals with complete lack of colour or melanin in their skin, fur or eyes (their eyes appear red because you can see through the completely colourless outer layers to the blood vessels in the iris), are exceedingly rare among cats. Thus white cats, when properly cared for, combine the beauty of a snow-white coat with variation in eye colour which means protection of the eye.

Keeping Your Cat Safe at Home

* Be aware of the plants you have in your house and in your yard, if your cat is permitted outside (CFA advocates cats being kept indoors at all times). The ingestion of azalea, oleander, easter lily, or yew plant material by a cat could be fatal.
* When cleaning your house, never allow your cat access to the area where cleaning agents are used or stored. Cleaning agents have a variety of properties; from those that could just irritate the gastrointestinal tract to those that have a corrosive action and can chemically burn the sensitive mucous membranes of the mouth, esophagus, and stomach.
* When using rat or mouse baits, ant or roach traps, or snail and slug baits, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your cats. Most baits contain sweet smelling inert ingredients, which can be very attractive to your cat.
* Never give your cat any medications unless under the directions of veterinarian. Many medications that are used safely in humans can be deadly when used inappropriately. One extra strength acetaminophen tablet (500mg) can kill a 7 pound cat.
* Keep all prescription and over the counter drugs out of reach of your cats. Pain killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, antidepressants, and diet pills are common examples of human medication that could be potentially lethal even in small dosages. Only one half of a 200mg naproxen tablet could cause stomach ulcers in cats.
* Never leave chocolates unattended. Approximately one half ounce of baking chocolate per pound body weight or less can cause clinical signs of toxicity.
* Many common household items have been shown to be lethal in certain species, including felines. Miscellaneous items that are highly toxic even in low quantities include pennies (high concentration of zinc), mothballs (contain naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene - one or two balls can be life threatening in most species), potpourri oils, fabric softener sheets, automatic dish detergents (contain cationic detergents which could cause corrosive lesions), batteries (contain acids or alkali which can also cause corrosive lesions), homemade play dough (contains high quantity of salt), winter heat source agents like hand or foot warmers (contain high levels of iron), cigarettes, coffee grounds, and alcoholic drinks.
* All automotive products such as oil, gasoline, and antifreeze should be stored in areas away from cat access. As little as one teaspoon of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) can be deadly in a 7lb cat.
* Before buying or using flea products on your cat or in your household, contact your veterinarian to discuss what types of flea products she/he would recommend for your pet. Read ALL information before using a product on your cat or in your home. Always follow label instructions. When a product is labeled "for use in dogs only" this means that the product should NEVER be applied to cats. When using a fogger or a house spray, make sure to remove all cats from the area for the time period specified on the container.
* When treating your lawn or garden with fertilizers, herbicides, or insecticides, always keep your cats away from the area until the area dries completely. Discuss usage of products with the manufacturer of the products to be used. Always store such products in an area that will ensure no cat exposure.

Can cats be trained to do things?

What! Training and cats in the same sentence? We all know that cats are independent, can even sometimes be just a touch aloof, and interact with us on their terms. How can such royal pets be trained? Many just assume a cat cannot be trained to perform even simple tasks.

Cats are actually able to learn some basic tasks, but understanding their psychology is important. Cats respond to praise very well, and will learn tasks that bring them a suitable reward. They also have short attention spans; fetching a Frisbee® or stick might keep a Labrador retriever engaged for a whole afternoon, but a typical feline play or training session might continue for 5 to 10 minutes. Playing "catch the furry toy ball" is of real interest to cats, and this is one simple game that can benefit the cat by increasing their exercise and is of high entertainment value. To reinforce their fetching behaviour, a food treat and praise (words, and petting) can be given each time they return the toy. For some cats, the food treat might sidetrack them, so for these cats, just praise and the next toy toss will suffice. Start with short distances and give rewards each time the cat cooperates. Make play sessions very short so that they are less likely to get bored and march off. End the session as soon as you see the first hint of tiring out.

Cats can be taught to relieve themselves using the household human facilities if the owner wishes. Some cats do not appear to take to toilet training, but most can be successfully trained with a lot of patience. The cat appreciates the clean facility, but may balk a bit because they were taught by their mother to scratch their stool into sand, litter or soil. Obviously, young cats that have not yet got in the habit of going in the box for a long period are easier to transition but cats have been trained even after maturity. One can purchase special potty training kits for cats, but a homemade system works just fine too. Start by putting the box near the toilet. After a few weeks, start to raise it gradually stepwise off the floor, using a solid support system (you don't want the cat to jump in and have it fall off the support and spook him!), and continue this for a few weeks. Finally, place the box on the toilet (lid up, seat down) and when this is comfortable, you are ready to start with the human toilet surface. Take a heavy-duty foil turkey roaster pan, and securely tape it under the seat onto the toilet base. Initially, put a bit of litter in the bottom of the pan under the seat hole. As he gets used to this, you can place a progressively larger hole in the tray, until he needs to stand on the toilet seat. Always leave the seat lid up so he can get at his facility!

Leash training is another skill that takes some patience, but if you are planning to offer your cat fresh air, going for a walk is an excellent way for them to get some exercise, and for you to ensure that they do not get into trouble with strays, or cars etc. Using a well-fitted harness is more secure, and will prevent him from slipping a collar or stressing the neck if the cat decides a sudden dash is in order! Some owners even teach their cat to walk along at the same time as the dog goes for a walk. Remember to keep the walks short, and praise the cat when they move forward when you call their name or another cue such as "walkies". Leash training is more easily done in kittens than with adults. If the cat appears to have tired, it is OK to pick them up to help them home! Don't expect the cat to stay neatly by your side (as you would with a trained dog). They will want to meander a bit, and may make periodic stops to gnaw a bit of grass. A walk with a cat is not a cardiovascular workout, but rather more of a parambulation!

Your veterinarian will likely have some excellent basic pet training books, and sometimes they will allow clients to sign these out. Even if they focus on dog training, the basic principles are similar.