Is Your Dog's Mind Going to the Dogs?

A typical morning for me consists of quickly feeding the dogs, pouring a cup of coffee in my
commuter mug, hunting frantically for my keys and rushing out the door-without the coffee.
I run back inside to collect what I forgot the first time. Now I'm not only late, but I'm
convinced I am losing my mind.

If you have an older dog, you might notice similar "absent mindedness" as he gets older.
And if your mornings are anything like mine, perhaps you can relate to what your dog may
be going through. While your brain lapse is more likely induced by the three extra times that
the alarm clock's snooze button was hit, for a senior dog, it's a biochemical change that
occurs in his brain as he ages. For you and me, slowing down-and waking up earlier-should
resolve that forgetfulness. And there's help for old Madeline too.

Similar to aging people, geriatric dogs-and maybe elderly cats-can suffer from a "memory"
disorder called cognitive dysfunction syndrome, or CDS. CDS has been compared with
Alzheimer's disease in people because the changes that occur in the brain are similar and the
signs-forgetfulness, disorientation, and not recognizing family members-are comparable.

In dogs with CDS, owners notice that their older animal seems more disoriented and
confused. "Dogs may seem lost in their surroundings-get lost behind a couch, or stuck in a
corner, or stand at the hinge side of the door," says Dr. Jo Ann Eurell, a veterinarian retired from the
University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine in Urbana with an interest in behavior.
"A senior pet may not recognize family members, or may sleep all day and be up pacing all
night. The most notable sign is a deterioration in house training. A dog with CDS will have a
lot of accidents."

The older a dog gets, the more likely cognitive dysfunction becomes. Because dogs, like
people, are living longer, owners have to watch for age-related medical and behavioral
disorders. "A lot of people write off signs of forgetfulness and disorientation in pets, thinking
that it's just because they are old and nothing can be done," say Dr. Eurell. "But there is
treatment available that may help dogs with CDS."

If your veterinarian suspects your senior canine is experiencing the effects of CDS, he will
perform a thorough examination to look for an underlying medical problem that could be
causing the behavior change. "As dogs age, their bodies undergo several different changes,"
says Dr. Eurell. "Aging dogs are particularly prone to problems with their hearing, smell,
sight, and joints. They are also at a higher risk for heart problems and metabolic
conditions."

Any of these problems can sometimes also cause signs similar to those in CDS, so a
veterinarian will want to make sure a disoriented dog is not suffering from another systemic
illness, hearing loss, or sight loss, before trying medication for CDS.

Annual exams, or bi-annual exams, are a very important part of keeping your best friend as
healthy as possible so he can really enjoy his golden years. So the trick for owners, advises
Dr. Eurell, is to be vigilant and to let your veterinarian know of any behavior changes,
especially if your dog is entering the golden years. Don't just dismiss senile behavior as "old
age." Your veterinarian may suggest medication that may solve the problem and have your
old dog learning new tricks in no time.

Don't Leave Dogs Unattended With Chew Treats

Chew treats made of compressed vegetable protein and fiber have become increasingly popular due to their benefits for pet dental health and enjoyment. Some of the most popular of these products are Greeniesﾮ, which have been approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council as effective for helping keep teeth clean.

Chewing the dense treats helps keep teeth clean by scraping food debris and plaque from the teeth, minimizing tartar buildup. In addition, dogs enjoy the entertainment of chewing while exercising important chewing muscles.

However, health problems associated with these chew treats have recently raised concern amongst pet owners and the veterinary community. According to Dr. Marcella Ridgway, veterinary internal medicine specialist at the University of Illinois Veterinary Teaching Hospital in Urbana, these types of treats are digestible, but can potentially lodge in the pet's gastrointestinal tract.

Compressed vegetable chew treats are designed to be chewed into small bits, but Ridgway explains, "Dogs that tend to swallow these treats in just a few bites may have more gastrointestinal (GI) obstruction problems that those who chew them thoroughly. However, some of the dogs which developed GI obstruction reportedly chewed the treats in an appropriate manner, so other factors are likely involved in the development of GI obstruction."

Emergency veterinary clinics have reported cases if GI obstruction with green material obstructing the esophagus or small intestine of dogs that were fed Greeniesﾮ. This has initiated a review of data on GI obstruction cases due to compressed vegetable chew treats.

The reasons these types of treats lodge are not clear; Dr. Ridgway posits that the vegetable material may be stickier than other foods, may conform to shape of tubular organs, and/or may bind liquid and expand significantly.

Ridgway points out that any type of chew treat or chew toy can pose a risk if large amounts or large pieces are swallowed. "We see also see esophageal obstruction with rawhide chews, which tend to get gooey and soft. Pieces of softened rawhide can also become caught in back of throat." This can be a serious problem if the airway gets obstructed.

The key to preventing problems with chew treats is to make sure your dog chews the treat properly. Dogs offered a new type of chew treat for the first time should be closely monitored.

"There is always some risk if pets are left alone with chew treats and toys that can be broken into pieces, even if the pet has never had a problem with the toys before," says Ridgway. "If you want to leave the dog with something to do while you are away, toys that are strong enough to not be chewed into smaller pieces while flexible enough not to injure teeth, such as durable rubber Kongﾮ-like toys or chew ropes, should be safe for most dogs."

The Greeniesﾮ Web site similarly states, "As with any edible product, monitor your dog to ensure the treat is adequately chewed. Gulping any item can be harmful or even fatal to a dog."

Also, the Greeniesﾮ packaging and Web site (http://www.greenies.com/feedingGuidelines.cfm) list specific recommendations for choosing an appropriately-sized treat for your dog.

Signs that may indicate gastrointestinal obstruction in your pet include vomiting, regurgitation, and refusal to eat.

Dog Urinating in the House

One of pet owners’ greatest frustrations is inappropriate elimination in the house. When the beloved family dog starts to use the living room as his own personal restroom, owners are understandably distraught. Aside from the monetary and time costs of cleaning up the mess left by their dog, the most serious cost can be to the relationship between pet and master. Unable to understand, and therefore cope with, the reasons underlying a pet’s continued housesoiling, some owners choose to give up their animal altogether. This scenario is unfortunate, and often unnecessary, considering that the behaviour is one that is easier to manage than most owners think.

The first thing that dog owners must understand is that there are many causes of inappropriate urination in the dog. Pinning down the cause is often half the battle, since identifying the problem helps us to select the appropriate treatment and greatly increase the odds of its success.

What would cause a mature dog to urinate in the home despite being given ample opportunity to do so outside? There are medical reasons and behavioural ones, and any vet will tell you that distinguishing between the two is crucial and often dictates the type and success of treatment.


Medical Causes

There are many diseases, especially in older animals, that may manifest themselves as housesoiling. Many geriatric dogs drink and urinate significantly more than usual – something your vet may refer to as “PU/PD”, or “polyuria/polydipsia” – as a result of kidney disease, diabetes, Cushing’s disease, and others. This is why it is important to mention significant increases in your pet’s water consumption to your vet. Dogs needing to relieve themselves more frequently than usual may in fact be suffering from bladder infections, prostate problems, or even tumours of the urinary tract. Incontinence is another culprit. Incontinence can result from neurological dysfunction or decreased urinary sphincter function. Also, geriatric pets may urinate in the home as their cognitive function and awareness of their surroundings declines.

A thorough history, including details about the volume, frequency, and colour of urination can help point your vet in the right direction. In addition, a laboratory analysis of your pet’s urine sample – or urinalysis – with or without simple bloodwork, can be invaluable. Often times, what appeared to be a behavioural problem turns out to have a medical basis, and can then be treated accordingly. Lab tests available through your vet not only rule out behavioural causes, but can help to narrow down the possible medical causes.

Treatment for medical causes of inappropriate elimination very much depends on the cause and the individual patient. Talk to your veterinarian.

Behavioural Causes

In puppies and young dogs, peeing in the house most often stems from insufficient housebreaking training. Urination in response to excitement or as a show of submission to other dogs or people is also common.

Separation anxiety can be an underlying cause of inappropriate elimination. Dogs that are highly bonded with their owners may become distressed by their absence, particularly if the owner has recently had longer periods away from home than usual. Older dogs are especially prone to experience this. Dogs with separation anxiety often show behavioural changes in response to cues of their masters’ impending exit, such as jingling keys or putting on a coat. During and after this time, they will express their upset with signs of overt agitation and restlessness (vocalization, pacing) or with depression (decreased willingness to get up or eat).

The cornerstones of managing separation anxiety include increasing daily exercise (to tire your pet out in advance), desensitizing your pet to your exit routine, and slowly letting pets get used to your absence in small, rather than large or sudden, increments. Leaving dogs with chew toys, other pets, or simply leaving the TV on for them, will help to divert attention away from your absence. In severe cases, a vet may prescribe dog-specific sedatives.

Marking, or urinating small amounts on upright objects, is a behaviour that is likely familiar to the owners of unneutered male dogs. Everyone has seen a male dog lift its leg on a fire hydrant outside, but problems arise when your good loveseat becomes the stand-in. Marking indoors is often the result of territorial instincts being triggered. Watching through the living room window as a strange dog or person approaches or even walks past the house can lead a motivate a male dog to mark his home turf – literally.

Neutering intact males stops marking in over half of these dogs. Another option is to minimize the stimuli leading to marking by keeping pets away from windows, so passersby stay out of their line of sight. Redirecting the marking behaviour toward an upright stake outdoors, and rewarding urination at this appropriate site with food or praise, is also a strategy that some owners find helpful.

The Bottom Line

In summary, owners don’t need to wring their hands when faced with urination in the house. A thorough history, physical exam, and urine tests performed by your vet will help distinguish medical from behavioural roots of the problem, and help tailor a treatment to your pet accordingly. Armed with an understanding of the cause of the problem, a treatment strategy, and a little patience, the family living room no longer has to double as your dog’s restroom.

Canine Rivalry - Dog Fighting

What is Canine Rivalry?

Canine rivalry refers to repeated conflicts between dogs living in the same household. Animals that live in social groups establish a social structure within that group. This social structure is hierarchical and dogs determine their place in the hierarchy through control of and access to various resources, such as food, toys and attention from people. A stable hierarchy in which each individual knows and accepts his rank provides dogs with a sense of comfort and belonging. Conflicts arise between household dogs when there is instability in the social structure; that is, when the ranking of each dog is not clear or is in contention. Dogs may warn each other initially by snarling, growling or snapping, but not causing injury. However, the conflict may sometimes intensify into prolonged bouts of dangerous fighting, which may result in one or both dogs being becoming injured.

Getting Professional Help
Ongoing canine rivalry is potentially dangerous. Dogs or human family members could be severely injured as a result of fighting. Because resolving rivalry problems requires managing the dogs’ somewhat complex social behaviors, it’s often necessary for owners to obtain assistance from a professional animal behaviorist. Certified animal behaviorists are trained to observe, interpret and modify animal behavior.

Why Conflict Occurs
Conflicts between household dogs develop for a wide variety of reasons. Conflicts may occur if:

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A new animal has been introduced to the household.
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A resident animal has died or no longer lives in the house.
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A resident animal is re-introduced after an absence.
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A young dog reaches social maturity, which is usually between 10 months and 2 years of age, and challenges the established higher-ranking dog.
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A high-ranking dog ages or becomes ill and cannot maintain his higher status.

Understanding Status Seeking Behavior and Social Structure
The dogs’ positions in the hierarchy are determined by the outcome of their interactions. The results of this complex and dynamic process will depend on the dogs themselves, without regard to your preferences. Any attempt on your part to interfere may result in increased conflict.

How dominance is established:
Dogs usually determine their social ranking through a series of behaviors, which include body postures and vocalizations that don’t result in injury. Examples of these behaviors are one dog “standing over” another by placing his paws or neck on the shoulders of the other, mounting, lip licking or rolling over onto the back. Some dogs may take toys away from other dogs, insist on being petted first or exercise control over other resources. However, because of past experiences, inadequate socialization or genetic tendencies, some dogs may escalate these displays into aggression with very little warning.

The Social Structure:
Do not attempt to influence or define the dogs’ rankings by treating them equally or by preventing a higher-ranking dog from asserting his position over another dog. The social hierarchy of the dogs is dynamic and complex, so even attempts to “support the dominant dog” may be counter productive. The dogs should be allowed to determine control of resources, such as toys and favorite sleeping places, amongst themselves. As much as possible, refrain from interfering in the dogs’ interactions with each other. But most importantly, establish yourself at the top of the hierarchy. Practicing “Nothing in Life is Free” is an easy and non-confrontational way to establish leadership by taking ultimate control of all resources the dogs find valuable. If your position as leader is clear, it will help the dogs sort out their lower places in the social structure more peacefully.

Breaking up a fight:
If you need to break up a fight, do so by squirting the dogs with water or making a loud noise to try and interrupt them. Never attempt to break up a dog fight by grabbing the dogs by their collars or getting any part of yourself in between them. Touching dogs while they are fighting can result in what is called “redirected aggression,” where a dog may bite you because he thinks you are part of the conflict. If you’ve had a dog fight, contact your veterinarian for a referral to a professional animal behaviorist.

What You Can Do To Help

If the dogs involved are intact males or females, spay or neuter both dogs.

Make sure that all of the humans in your household are at the top of the hierarchy by practicing “Nothing in Life is Free.”

Establish fair rules and enforce them consistently. This helps all the dogs feel more secure and also reinforces your role as leader. With the help of a professional animal behaviorist, elicit and reinforce non-aggressive behaviors using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques. These procedures must be designed and tailored to specifically meet the needs of each individual case and require professional in-home help. Punishment will not resolve the issue and can actually make it worse. You should be aware that if you respond to this type of problem inappropriately, you run the risk of intensifying the problem and potentially causing injury to yourself and/or your dogs.

Dog owner responsibility

Man’s best friend can become his visitor’s enemy. So, if you are a dog owner take steps to avoid a very preventable injury to your visitor and very expensive injury lawsuit. If you are a visitor injured by the dog’s behavior, then you have the right to compensation for damages.

Recently, in the U.S., a New Jersey Superior Court in Mercer County awarded $100,000 in damages to a UPS driver for injuries he suffered while trying to deliver a package. The homeowners’ dog was roaming alone loose on the property, had a history of viciousness, went at the driver, and the driver severely and permanently injured his knee trying to escape.

Also recently, an unrestrained dog jumped out of its owner’s car window and viciously attacked a woman and her dog. The attacking dog was reported to be a repeat offender.


Depending on the which province or state you live in, in both Canada and the U.S., dog owners can be held liable, or financially responsible, for injuries caused by their dog’s behavior in three possible and very common scenarios.

First, in New Jersey for example, the law says dog owners, and only the owners, are strictly liable for injuries caused by their dog’s bite, so long as the victim was lawfully on the property and regardless of the dog’s history. However, if the dog has a vicious propensity that the owner knew or should have known, then the dog’s owner or even the dog’s keeper are responsible for any injuries caused by the dog – even if not caused by biting and biting was not involved in the incident. Vicious propensity can be proven simply by the dog’s history of biting, jumping, chasing, scratching, or even being overly affectionate or playful. “Down boy!” And, third, even if the dog did not bite and did not have a vicious propensity, then the owner or keeper may be liable for injuries because they failed to exercise a reasonable degree of care for the safety of others.

Owners have a duty to provide safe premises for those invited onto its property and a duty to control their dogs. It is considered dangerous to allow a dog on your property unleashed, unrestrained or unfenced, or to roam free, unsupervised or in an area where it is likely to encounter strangers. At least a clear warning of the dog’s presence should be posted. People visit for a variety of legitimate reasons every day: Mail carriers, newspaper carriers, package deliverers, utility & maintenance workers, fundraisers, friends and family. Knowing this, owners must anticipate their dog’s behavior. Dogs protect their turf. They investigate strangers. They approach and greet anyone who enters their turf. Unless the dog is responsibly controlled, preventable injuries are likely to happen.

Even friendly dogs can cause serious injury – unintentionally. A big, friendly dog that gets excited when visitors arrive can knock the visitor down, wrench their back, twist their ankle, or otherwise “kill” them with kindness and curiosity. Just the sight of a large dog on the loose and coming toward a visitor can frighten them into hasty escape and injury. Not everyone shares enthusiasm for dogs, especially a 100-pound German Shepard rushing to say “Hello” … or “Get lost”. And that’s their right.

When dog owners fail to exercise care and visitors are injured, people’s lives can be ruined and courts will impose substantial money damages to compensate victims. Compensation has been recovered for injuries when someone was running from a dog, when someone fell after being chased by a dog, or when someone was knocked to the ground by a dog.

Owning a dog carries special responsibility to ensure others’ safety. If you are a delivery person, newspaper carrier, utility worker, or any visitor to another’s property where a dog is present, and are injured by the dog, you have a right to recover money damages under the law.

What to do when your dog eats poop

Poop-eating (coprophagia) is generally a natural behaviour in dogs but unfortunately one that can be more than a little disgusting. Let’s face it, dogs are renowned for their flexible palates, and to them, poop is just another taste sensation. Frozen feces, or poopsicles, are an especially alluring snack. Puppies are the most frequent culprits, and owners take heart, they will usually grow out of this habit with a few precautionary measures. Dogs over one year old that have developed this habit can be a little harder to discourage.

Why do they do it?

Dogs are hard-wired to explore any and all potential food resources in their environment. This is especially true of puppies. Feces is very similar in texture to the regurgitated food they got from mom. Breeding females, as well, are naturally inclined to do their own "scooping" as they would normally clean up after their pups in the den. In addition, most dogs feel some urge to keep their territory or den clean, especially if they have been scolded for leaving a mess before. For some dogs, it is also a way to garner attention from an owner or to alleviate stress.

A poor quality diet or one that a dog is unable to digest easily might encourage your dog to give his poop a second round. In households where both dogs and cats are present, dogs may eat cat feces. Cat feces is more nutritious than dog feces, since cats are less efficient at digesting their food. Cat food is also higher in protein than dog food and so cat poop contains many extra nutrients. That being said, there are some cases when coprophagia indicates a greater health problem, such as pancreatic insufficiency, specific nutrient deficiencies, or plain old starvation. A dog that is eating a lot of food can still starve if the food is missing important nutrients. In these cases the dog will lose weight or develop other symptoms over time.

Is it harmful?

On the whole, the biggest consequence of coprophagia is that we humans find it revolting. A dog eating its own poop is unlikely to have any harmful effects. Many owners worry about infectious diseases, but most healthy, vaccinated dogs are at a low risk for picking up illnesses this way. Snacking indiscriminately on neighbourhood poop does increase a dog’s chances of picking up worms (especially if there are cats that hunt in the area), but a standard preventative and treatment program will keep this from affecting your dog’s health. For example, many heartworm medications will also kill some types of intestinal worms, and fecal screening for intestinal parasites should be done twice a year at your vet’s office. Keep in mind that your dog will probably be exposed to most parasites in your community whether he is actually taste-testing or just sniffing around.

Something that is of concern when dogs eat cat poop is that they might end up regularly swallowing a side of kitty litter, which is serious in large quantities, especially if the absorbent (clumping) litter expands in the gut. A dog with a belly full of kitty litter can sometimes become severely ill and might end up at the vet with vomiting or diarrhea. The consumed cat litter can be difficult to remove even with surgery, as it can scatter throughout the digestive tract.

How do I stop it?

In all cases, reducing temptation is the quickest solution. Scoop your yard frequently, keep Fido on a short leash in that poop-riddled park, and put the cat box out of reach. The kitty litter may need to be moved onto a higher surface or put in a room with a baby gate. A covered cat box might be all that is needed if the dog is much larger than the cat.

Quite often, a change to a high quality, high protein, low carbohydrate and low fat diet will do the trick. Commercially available additives are sold in pet stores that claim to make poop less palatable. Many owners find that a teaspoon of canned spinach, pineapple, or a little meat tenderizer works equally well.

Some owners will sprinkle hot sauce or pepper onto the poop in the yard (not on the food!). Keep in mind that Fido can easily sniff out which poops are booby-trapped, so this method might not work as well for dogs that prefer to "eat out" while on walks. Of course it makes sense to get advice from your veterinarian or trainer for help in solving this issue if you cannot.

Although you may wish to train your dog not to use some areas of your house or yard as a toilet, never scold your dog for defecating. Promptly remove him to an appropriate location and praise him when he gets it right. Don’t scold him for poop-eating, either, as even negative attention can be seen as a reward. If stress is the reason for your dog’s new habit, hopefully an end to the stress will result in an end to the habit.

Above all, remember that your dog is performing a behaviour that is natural, and even rewarding to him: to a dog, potentially delicious. Punishment is not always enough to counteract his instincts, and can sometimes reinforce them. Removal of temptation and reward for preferred behaviours are always your best training tools.

Clicker Training of Dogs

A clicker is a small handheld noisemaker that makes a distinct “click” when it is pressed. Clicker training is a subset or restricted application of OPERANT CONDITIONING.

Clicker training is merely a tool that is used in operant conditioning. A clicker has also been called a bridge or a marker. Clicker training has been successfully used in animal training over the last couple of decades. Over 140 different species have been successfully “clicker trained”. Many of the animals you have seen in movies/theatrical appearances or commercials have been clicker trained.

To put it very basically, whenever an animal performs a desired action, the handler should immediately click with a hand held clicker, then deliver a reward the animal desires (such as a tasty treat). The animal will associate the click as a marker that clues the animal when it does a specific action, they will get a reward.

What is Operant Conditioning (O C) ?

OC states that much of behavior is under control of it’s consequences. (OC forms an association between doing a particular behavior and a consequence). There are four possible consequences to any behavior. They are:

1.Something Good can start or be presented (positive reinforcement)
2.Something Good can end or be taken away (negative punishment)
3.Something Bad can start or be presented (positive punishment) 4.Something Bad can end or be taken away (negative reinforcement)

Consequences have to be immediate or clearly linked to the behavior. With verbal humans, we can explain the connection between the consequence and the behavior, even if they are separated by a long length of time. For example, you might tell a friend that you'll buy dinner for them since they helped you work on your car last week or a parent might explain that the child can't go to the movies because of his bad grades. With very young children, other humans who don't have verbal skills, and animals, you can't explain the connection between the consequence and the behavior. For the animal, the consequence has to be immediate. The way to work around this need for immediacy is to use a bridge (a clicker) to “mark” a behavior and then deliver the consequence.

What is positive reinforcement?

Positive reinforcement is the use of rewards (whatever an animal desires, such as food or a favorite toy) to get an animal to continually perform a desired behavior, such as sitting, laying down or shaking a paw. Rewards have to
be relevant (valuable) to the particular animal. Some dogs may love a particular brand of treat while others may turn their noses up at it.

What is negative reinforcement?

Negative reinforcement is when you take away something bad to get a desired behavior to increase. When you get into a car, and the seatbelt warning alarm makes a continued high pitch ring until you fasten your seat belt, the car
manufacturers are using negative reinforcement. The alarm stops once you fasten your seat belt, which will increase the likely hood of you fastening the seatbelt in the future. Negative reinforcement can lead to fear responses in an animal and can actually “shut” the animal down. It is NOT an appropriate tool to use in training anything new to your animal.

What is positive punishment?

Positive punishment is the use of verbal scolding or physical ‘punishment’ to get an animal to stop doing an undesirable behavior. Positive punishment can lead to aggression, as it promotes a fear-based response in an animal. Animals learn quicker by being rewarded for a particular action rather than being punished.

What is negative punishment?

Negative Punishment is taking away an anticipated reward. An example would be picking up the dog’s leash to go for a walk but putting it down the second the dog jumps or barks at you. Negative punishment can be used to teach self
control in animals as it usually only results in some frustration at first until the animal understands he can make the “good” thing come back by acting
appropriately.

My dog is afraid of the clicker

If you notice the animal is shying away from the click (the sound is unfamiliar and may frighten a stressed out dog), you can either muffle the sound so that it is not as loud, or discontinue the clicker session (if the animal seems to be very stressed, tail tucked, fearful body language, avoiding). Some ways of muffling the ‘click’ are as follows:
• Hide the clicker behind your back
• Place the clicker in your pocket. Click from
inside your pocket.
• Wrap the clicker in a small towel

Do I have to click and treat every time?

Yes!!! You are conditioning your dog to respond to the clicker and then you will be using the clicker to mark behaviors. Remember to click and immediately reward after each successful behavior that you are trying to teach. Do NOT click and then fudge on the reward. You MUST deliver a reward to the animal every time you click. Do NOT click multiple times in a row and then offer one single reward. The ratio is one click = one reward. Do
NOT point the clicker at your dog like a remote control. Hold your hand casually at your side and click when your dog does something you want to reinforce (don’t forget to immediately reward the dog as well!)

Why Can't I use my voice instead of the clicker?

The “click” from a clicker is a very distinguishable sound. The click is non-emotional, has the same pitch and tone and is different than other sounds
in the environment. Voices vary widely from person to person. The click will stay the same no matter who uses the clicker.

Dog poops in the house

Ask any pet owner – there are few surprises as unpleasant as finding a pile of Rover’s doggie-doo on the living room carpet. The resultant mess and odours are off-putting enough, but the most important potential consequence of housesoiling is the havoc it wreaks on the relationship between dog and master. Understandably, defecation in the house is poorly tolerated by owners – much more so than urination – and may lead them to seriously consider relinquishing the pet. This is an unfortunate scenario that owners and veterinarians must strive to avoid, especially since the prognosis for resolution of the behaviour is often quite good, depending on the underlying cause.

Elimination is defined as ‘inappropriate’ whenever a pet has had ample opportunity to relieve itself in a designated area, yet continues to do so indoors.

Although the net result is the same – poo on your new beige carpet – the causes are numerous, and diverse. Furthermore, the nature of the problem, be it medical or behavioural, has a direct bearing on the likelihood of successful treatment. For this reason, the first task in working up any dog that has started to defecate indoors is differentiating between medical versus behavioural causes.

Medical Causes

When an otherwise housebroken and well-behaved mature dog is found to be leaving ‘number two’s’ around the home, it may be the result of an increased urgency and / or frequency of needing to relieve itself. Conditions such as colitis (inflammation and irritation of the large intestine) may manifest in this way. Organisms causing diarrhea, such as parasitic worms, bacteria, and viruses, may also be responsible for increasing the fluid volume of stool and the urgency to defecate in between walking times. Puppies, as well as immunocompromised and debilitated dogs, are particularly vulnerable to some of these diarrhea-causing pathogens. This last point underscores the importance of regular preventative deworming and timely vaccination of puppies (and adults), according to your veterinarian’s advice.

Your vet is able to easily check stool samples for microscopic evidence of parasites and their eggs, or ‘ova’. Multiple samples may be needed though, since many parasites’ ova are shed in feces inconsistently, and as such, may not appear in every successive sample even though they are cause of the infection. Feces may also be tested to rule out other infectious causes of diarrhea. Treatment usually consists of supportive care (such as fluids for dehydration associated with diarrhea) and antibiotics or antiparasitic medications. Colitis is managed according to its cause, be it allergic, infectious, or otherwise.

Dogs suffering from constipation or otherwise difficult or painful defecation (“dyschezia”) for a variety of causes may not make full use of their bathroom time outside, and may therefore find themselves having to defecate at inappropriate times and locations. Conditions affecting the hind end are often to blame, ranging from inflammation or infection of the anal sacs to orthopedic problems such as arthritis and hip dysplasia, which make it uncomfortable to squat down to defecate. A thorough history, including questions about the appearance and consistency of your dog’s stool, physical exam, and fecal testing by your vet will aid in sorting out gastrointestinal from orthopedic causes. Again, treatment will be determined by the underlying cause of the difficulty in defecating.

Another medical cause for inappropriate elimination in dogs is incontinence, a condition in which the dog simply cannot control its bowel movements, and may not even be aware that it is defecating at all. Incontinence is a neurological problem, and as such can be more complex and carry a less favourable prognosis for cure, especially in older pets with a chronic history or in spinal injury patients. Your veterinarian will perform a thorough neurological exam of your dog to rule in or out nervous system involvement. Another neurological basis for housesoiling is cognitive dysfunction (CD), akin to dementia in people. This is often seen in the geriatric dog population, as mental function declines and awareness of their surroundings decreases, such that the dog loses any concept of the inappropriateness of its behaviour. Cognitive dysfunction is the result of a degenerative process occurring in the brain, so it is slowly progressive. However, your vet is still able to offer some therapeutic options that may slow these often inevitable changes. Ask your vet about the latest medications available to manage CD.

Behavioural Causes

When the results of your dog’s physical exam, lab tests, and fecal analysis yield no evidence of physiological causes of inappropriate defecation, the root of the problem is often times found to be a behavioural one. A common cause of housesoiling is inadequate housebreaking training. This topic is discussed in more detail in the Pets.ca bulletin board here.

Changes in feeding or walking schedule can sometimes account for a recent onset of indoor defecation by a usually well-behaved dog. Dogs, like people, will often relieve themselves at more or less predictable intervals following meals. Take some time to observe these intervals and ensure that your dog is afforded the opportunity to relieve himself outside at the times he is most likely to have to go. Feeding two or three small meals a day is more likely to allow owners to predict, and therefore accommodate, their dogs’ defecation habits than leaving out a bowl of food all day long for occasional, unpredictable grazing.

If changes in your shifts at work mean you will be away from the house for longer periods of time than usual, ensure that any feces that will inevitably be passed over that time will end up in a location of your choice. Laying newspapers or ‘pee-pads’ down in a tiled room in the house makes clean-up of the unavoidable accidents easier, and provides an appropriate outlet for your pet’s bathroom urges. Crating your dog may also be a good option, as it takes advantage of dogs’ natural aversion to soiling where they sleep. Leaving any dog in a crate for too long, however, will eventually lead to it soiling its living quarters, which is upsetting for the dog. It should therefore be emphasized that crates are in no way a replacement for conscientious care and walking of a dog.

The Bottom Line

While nobody wants to return home from a long day to find their home ‘redecorated’ by their dog’s poo, owners should take heart that housesoiling can often be a treatable, transient problem. Working with your vet to pin the cause down as either medical or behavioural is key. Only then can treatments can be devised accordingly and a reasonable prognosis given for success. The problem can initially be a frustrating one but remember…with some patience and dedication, a dog leaving number two’s in the house may well return to being your number one pet.

Stop Dog Barking

To a dog, loud short words like “no!”, “shut up!”, “don’t bark!” sound just like barks. Think of it this way. The dog barks to signal a potential problem. Now you (who are suppose it to be the leader of the pack) come over and bark too. This clearly indicates that you agree that this is the right time to sound the alarm….

The procedure worked out by wild canines to stop barking is really quite simple. The pack leader, the puppy's mother, or any pack member who is obviously higher in dominance ranking can give the signal for silence. To quiet barking, the dominant animal places its mouth over the offender's muzzle, without actually biting, and then gives a short, low, and breathy growl. The low growl will not be heard very far, and is short in duration. The mouth over the muzzle is not actually inflicting pain, so there is no yelping or attempt to escape. Silence usually follows immediately.

Humans can mimic this behavior as a simple way to tell a dog to stop barking when it is near you. With your dog sitting at your left side, slip the fingers of your left hand under the collar at the back of the dog's neck. Pull up on the collar with your left hand, while your right hand folds over the top of the dog's muzzle and presses down. In a quiet, businesslike and unemotional tone, you simply say, "a Quiet." You repeat this silencing maneuver whenever it is necessary. Depending upon the breed, it may take anywhere from two to a couple of dozen repetitions to associate the calmly stated command " “Quiet" with an end to barking.

What you have done in this instance is to effectively copy the way in which the pack leader will silence a noisy puppy or other pack member. Your left hand on the collar is simply immobilizes the head. Your right hand serves the same function and communicates the same message as the leader's mouth over the noisy animal's muzzle. The softly spoken, "Quiet" mimics the short, low, breathy growl.

Be sure, however, that you use this procedure to stop a dog from barking only when barking is unnecessary, as in an obedience class or a public place. Remember that we specifically bred dogs to bark, so if your dog sounds the alarm at the approach of a stranger, or even at the sight of the cat outside your window, don't correct him. If there is no cause for any action, just call him to your side and give him a quick pet or rub. By barking, your dog is only doing the job we designed him to do thousands of years ago….

Dog lice

What is dog lice? Are they the same type of lice that affect humans? What is the most effective way of getting rid of dog lice?

Sometimes even a clean, well-groomed dog can play a host to different types of unwanted guests. One of these unwanted visitors is called dog lice. Dog lice infestation is not common among dogs in this country, especially those that live in a clean environment and get proper care and attention.

However, you should still be aware of their symptoms and know how to deal with the problem should it occur. Dog lice causes severe irritation and illness to your dog. In addition, dog lice carries disease and complications such as anemia.

Dog lice are flat, gray, wingless parasites that are about a twelfth of an inch long. Dog lice are very slow movers. In fact, they hardly move at all. Dog lice only affect the dogs in your home and are not capable of surviving off of cats and humans.

There are two types of dog lice that exist: The first type of dog lice concentrates on biting the skin and feeding on skin flakes; the other type of dog lice feed on your dog's blood. Blood sucking lice causes severe irritation because they penetrate the skin of your dog in order to feed.

Signs that your dog is infected with dog lice are heavy, intense scratching, and irritation that often results in bald patches. Dog lice are usually found on the area around the ears, neck, shoulders, and anus. Although dog lice are relatively large, you are more likely to spot their eggs in your dog's hair. Lice eggs (nits) are easier to see because they are attached to the dog's hair and look like white tiny flakes of dust.

Treating dog lice is relatively simple and easy due to the fact that they have not built up a resistance to insecticides. Your vet will more likely recommend an insecticide spray or bath to kill them. He may require you to cut off matted hair and wash your dog about once every week with the insecticide.

This procedure is then repeated until the itching is gone and there are no more visible lice eggs. If you have a puppy that is infected with lice, consult your vet first before starting on any kind of pesticide treatment or other type of medication.

To prevent further lice infestation and make sure that all the lice eggs have been completely eliminated, it is a wise idea to throw away all bedding that your dog has lain on during lice infestation and to disinfect the area where he sleeps.

Dog lice - When it is time to see the vet

Chances are that you have noticed lately that your dog's new favorite hobby is scratching himself in at least three places at once. When you part his coat to examine what is causing the itch and excessive scratching, you notice tiny white dust-like particles that are attached to the hair shafts. What are these tiny particles and why are they causing your dog to itch?

Your dog is suffering from lice infestation. Dog lice are six legged parasites that feed either on your dog's flesh or their blood, triggering intense itchy reactions. The tiny white particles that are attached to his hair are lice eggs or nits. Although dogs rarely get lice and it is actually more common for people to get human lice, dog lice is still out there and our dogs are not immune to them.
One tiny louse cannot kill your dog, but once that tiny louse decides to invite all his louse friends to live off of your dog, then your pet could literally be eaten alive. If your dog is suffering from a severe case of lice, he could lose about one quarter of his blood volume within months, causing severe anemia or shock.