Thinking of getting a cat?

Why do people choose cats over other pets?

Cats are the most prevalent domesticated animal, 63 million of them are kept as pets around the world! Cats are wonderful pets if you get to know them, spend time with them, and treat them right. In actuality there is a multitude of reasons for choosing a cat as your primary pet including (but not limited to):


Cats are fairly quiet pets in comparison to dogs

Cats are smaller animals

Cats bury their own waste and thus don't 'need' to be walked or let outside

Cats require less grooming than dogs

Cats are fairly independent animals, although they welcome and thrive on your attention and will grow and blossom in a home where they are cuddled and talked to often

Cats are fairly non-aggressive

Cats are less costly than dogs
Cats can live in smaller, inside places like apartments or condos

Cats require little exercise when compared to dogs

Cats require minimal training

Why should I get a cat/kitten?

Now that we know why cats are good pets let's talk about if you should get a cat. There are a few questions that you need to ask yourself before adopting a cat or kitten. If you answer no to any of them please think long and hard about adopting. Don't adopt if you can not properly take care of your pet, as it is very cruel to that animal!


Is there enough room in my home? - Although cats require less room than dogs they still need ample room to roam, run, jump and play. Any home smaller than about 700 sq. feet is too small for one cat to live in (and 900 sq feet is about the minimum for two).


Can I deal with a litterbox and potential accidents? - Although cats are very clean animals and instinctually bury their waste, you still need to clean out their litterbox. And as your cat is adjusting to his/her box, if your cat is stressed, if something changes about his/her box (placement or litter type) or if your cat gets ill; he/she may have an accident or two. You must ask yourself, are you willing to clean out the litterbox at least once a day (more often for larger and multiple cats) and deal with potential accidents that are bound to occur at some point in your pet's life?


Can you afford a cat? - Cats are cheaper pets than dogs but you will still need to afford the following: food, treats, bowls, litter, litterbox, scooper, scratching post, cat bed, toys, cat carriers, brushes and grooming tools, collar, identification tag, and medical care. Your cat needs, at minimum, all of the above. Many people get cats and at the first sign of medical expense dump the cat off at the shelter. Be prepared for medical expenses (you can even purchase pet health insurance), you never know when a cat will get ill. And if you can't afford or aren't willing to pay for medical expenses, if and when it happens, don't get a cat. Too many people wait until the last possible second before taking a cat to the vet. This denial of proper medical attention to save a few bucks is cruel to the animal and usually end up costing more as by the time the cat is at the vet the cat is very, very ill.


Do you have time to spend at least 2 hours a day with your pet? - Cats need quality time with you and need to play, be nurtured and be exercised. Plan on spending at minimum 2 hours/day with your cat. If you are the type that will never be home or will be gone every weekend, don't get a cat (get a hamster instead).


Can you deal with training your cat and possibly a few bad behaviors? - Don't get us wrong, cats are very low maintenance. Cats are fairly easily trained and many cats come to us already knowledgeable about how to act, use a litterbox, use a scratching post etc.; however, you may need to spend some time training your pet and/or dealing with the consequences of bad behaviors if you don't train your pet. If your personality can't deal with this and will get angry at the cat rather than disliking the behavior and fixing that then you need to think long and hard about getting any pet.


Can you deal with pet hair? - Cats are hairy and they shed. Are you ready to deal with cat hair on the couch and such? As with any pet the idea of keeping your house immaculate, although possible, will take a little more work.


Can you keep your cat indoors? - Of course you can take your cat out on walks, or create a fenced in area in your backyard for your cat to play in, but for the safety and longevity of your pet it is best to keep him/her as in indoor animal. For the most part indoor cats live much longer lives than outdoor-only cats, this is due to the high risk of disease (many of which there are no vaccines for), poor eating habits, assault from other animals and humans, and other unknowns that outdoor cats face. Some studies report that indoor-only cats live on average 12 years while outdoor-only cats only live on average 3 years.


Can you deal with your furniture potentially getting clawed or damaged? - You can and should train your cat to not claw furniture (rather than getting your cat declawed which is considered cruel by many veterinarians and cat lovers), however, if you don't train your cat properly this can happen.


Can you deal with illness or death? - At some time point your pet may get ill and unfortunately will eventually die. Are you willing to deal with such an illness or death emotionally and financially?

Cats can bring so much in to your life. They are wonderful, intelligent, expressive creatures who can bring you vast amounts of joy and happiness. It is shown that people (especially seniors) with pets have lower blood pressure, are happier, and live longer. However, if you answered no to any of the above questions we recommend NOT getting a cat. As with any new roommate in your home there are compromises that will need to be made. If you are not willing to deal with some of the compromises with a cat then you should not get one.

Cat Breeds

Purebred dogs are very popular. They are carefully bred for personality and appearance. Many people are devotees of specific breeds, and it is not uncommon to see purebred dogs. What most people don’t realize is that cats have also been selectively bred. Sure, we’ve all heard of Siamese and Persians, but pet cats, unlike dogs, are not often chosen based on breed. This article will give you a short introduction to some common cat breeds, and to the unique personalities and appearances that they have been specifically bred for.

The Persian lives the envious life of a couch potato. They are quiet cats with limited activity needs. However, the long, silky coat that they are renowned for requires a fair bit of maintenance, to avoid matting. They come in lots of colours, and have a flat face and large heads. The flattened nose, also found in dogs such as the Boxer and Pug, may predispose these cats to respiratory problems later in life. This cat is ideal for an owner who cannot be home a lot and wants an absolutely beautiful couch companion.

The Himalayan Persian, commonly simply called the Himalayan, mixes the long coat of the Persian with the colour of the Siamese. This gives you a cat that looks like a Persian but has pointed colouring. Pointed colouring is a heat-sensitive reaction where the fur of the face, ears, tail, and feet are a darker colour than the rest of the body. This cat is outgoing but still fairly quiet, like the Persian.

The Ragdoll has an interesting history. It has been bred intensively to produce a very relaxed disposition; the initial claim was that these animals were so gentle and placid that they went limp (like a Ragdoll) when you picked them up. They have a medium-long coat that requires less maintenance than the Persian or Himalayan. They also have a rounder face, and have pointed colouring. Reaching weights ranging from ten to twenty pounds, these cats are the gentle giants of the cat breeds.

The Maine Coon is also widely known for its luxurious coat. The coat has a texture that is unique to this breed, and is heavy, low maintenance, and water repellent, which reflects its farm-cat background. This breed also has a unique ‘trill’, in addition to the other forms of vocalization. They are big cats, rivalling the Ragdoll in size. These cats tend to be the favorite breed of men, as they are good companions but not overly demanding of affection.

Munchkins are a very interesting breed. To look at them, they are reminiscent of Daschund dogs. They have a normal-sized body with extremely short legs. This defect is inherited. They were also bred for their playfulness and eternal kitten appearance. Munchkins are prone to spinal problems, such as lordosis. Lordosis is excessive downward curve of the spine that can be very painful and incompatible with motion. This breed is coveted by people who want a ‘cute’ cat, but any potential owner should be aware of the health problems that may be associated with this defect.

Manx are another unusual-looking breed. They have no (or very little) tail, and their hind legs are longer than their front legs. Therefore, these cats tend to ‘bunny-hop’ when they run. Everything about them is round: their bodies, eyes, rump, head, and paws. They are also found as a long-haired cat, called the ‘Cymric’. Like with the Munchkins, this defect comes at a price. Manx are prone to spinal, gait, bowl, and bladder problems. In some circumstances, in both breeds, these problems can be so bad that the kittens need to be euthanized. These cats are prized for their appearance and playful, even-tempered personality.

The Abyssinian is the most affectionate cat that we have discussed so far. It needs, and demands, play time and attention. They are a distinctive glorious rich rust colour, termed ‘ticked’. They have little tufts of hair on the tips of their ears and are built like an average cat in size and shape. This breed is recommended for people who are looking for a very interactive and social cat.

The Siamese is a cat of legends! It is known for its pointed colouring and slanting eyes. Over the past century, the Siamese has been increasingly bred for long, fine features, especially in the legs and head. These cats are a handful! They are the most gregarious and talkative breed out there. The Siamese is a cat for someone who is willing to put extra time and attention into a pet cat.

Sphinx cats still exist; they are not merely myth! These ‘hairless’ cats are still somewhat of a rarity. They are not actually hairless, but are in fact covered by fuzz that gives them a suede-like feel. They are mischievous and playful, but the real effort comes in maintaining the health of these cats. Because they have no fur, their skin needs special daily maintenance, and they are very prone to heat and cold. Therefore, these are strictly indoor cats. The large eyes and ears add to the exotic look of these cats. They are only for true devotees of the breed, as they require extra care.

Perhaps, next time you consider getting a cat, you will think about getting a purebred. Purebred cats have a fairly predictable personality and appearance. There are many breeds out there and this was just a short introduction. You can find more information about cat breeds through your local veterinarian or on breed websites. You can also adopt a purebred cat through the many rescue groups in Canada and the USA that specialize in specific cat breeds.

Dog Urinating in the House

One of pet owners’ greatest frustrations is inappropriate elimination in the house. When the beloved family dog starts to use the living room as his own personal restroom, owners are understandably distraught. Aside from the monetary and time costs of cleaning up the mess left by their dog, the most serious cost can be to the relationship between pet and master. Unable to understand, and therefore cope with, the reasons underlying a pet’s continued housesoiling, some owners choose to give up their animal altogether. This scenario is unfortunate, and often unnecessary, considering that the behaviour is one that is easier to manage than most owners think.

The first thing that dog owners must understand is that there are many causes of inappropriate urination in the dog. Pinning down the cause is often half the battle, since identifying the problem helps us to select the appropriate treatment and greatly increase the odds of its success.

What would cause a mature dog to urinate in the home despite being given ample opportunity to do so outside? There are medical reasons and behavioural ones, and any vet will tell you that distinguishing between the two is crucial and often dictates the type and success of treatment.


Medical Causes

There are many diseases, especially in older animals, that may manifest themselves as housesoiling. Many geriatric dogs drink and urinate significantly more than usual – something your vet may refer to as “PU/PD”, or “polyuria/polydipsia” – as a result of kidney disease, diabetes, Cushing’s disease, and others. This is why it is important to mention significant increases in your pet’s water consumption to your vet. Dogs needing to relieve themselves more frequently than usual may in fact be suffering from bladder infections, prostate problems, or even tumours of the urinary tract. Incontinence is another culprit. Incontinence can result from neurological dysfunction or decreased urinary sphincter function. Also, geriatric pets may urinate in the home as their cognitive function and awareness of their surroundings declines.

A thorough history, including details about the volume, frequency, and colour of urination can help point your vet in the right direction. In addition, a laboratory analysis of your pet’s urine sample – or urinalysis – with or without simple bloodwork, can be invaluable. Often times, what appeared to be a behavioural problem turns out to have a medical basis, and can then be treated accordingly. Lab tests available through your vet not only rule out behavioural causes, but can help to narrow down the possible medical causes.

Treatment for medical causes of inappropriate elimination very much depends on the cause and the individual patient. Talk to your veterinarian.

Behavioural Causes

In puppies and young dogs, peeing in the house most often stems from insufficient housebreaking training. Urination in response to excitement or as a show of submission to other dogs or people is also common.

Separation anxiety can be an underlying cause of inappropriate elimination. Dogs that are highly bonded with their owners may become distressed by their absence, particularly if the owner has recently had longer periods away from home than usual. Older dogs are especially prone to experience this. Dogs with separation anxiety often show behavioural changes in response to cues of their masters’ impending exit, such as jingling keys or putting on a coat. During and after this time, they will express their upset with signs of overt agitation and restlessness (vocalization, pacing) or with depression (decreased willingness to get up or eat).

The cornerstones of managing separation anxiety include increasing daily exercise (to tire your pet out in advance), desensitizing your pet to your exit routine, and slowly letting pets get used to your absence in small, rather than large or sudden, increments. Leaving dogs with chew toys, other pets, or simply leaving the TV on for them, will help to divert attention away from your absence. In severe cases, a vet may prescribe dog-specific sedatives.

Marking, or urinating small amounts on upright objects, is a behaviour that is likely familiar to the owners of unneutered male dogs. Everyone has seen a male dog lift its leg on a fire hydrant outside, but problems arise when your good loveseat becomes the stand-in. Marking indoors is often the result of territorial instincts being triggered. Watching through the living room window as a strange dog or person approaches or even walks past the house can lead a motivate a male dog to mark his home turf – literally.

Neutering intact males stops marking in over half of these dogs. Another option is to minimize the stimuli leading to marking by keeping pets away from windows, so passersby stay out of their line of sight. Redirecting the marking behaviour toward an upright stake outdoors, and rewarding urination at this appropriate site with food or praise, is also a strategy that some owners find helpful.

The Bottom Line

In summary, owners don’t need to wring their hands when faced with urination in the house. A thorough history, physical exam, and urine tests performed by your vet will help distinguish medical from behavioural roots of the problem, and help tailor a treatment to your pet accordingly. Armed with an understanding of the cause of the problem, a treatment strategy, and a little patience, the family living room no longer has to double as your dog’s restroom.

Canine Rivalry - Dog Fighting

What is Canine Rivalry?

Canine rivalry refers to repeated conflicts between dogs living in the same household. Animals that live in social groups establish a social structure within that group. This social structure is hierarchical and dogs determine their place in the hierarchy through control of and access to various resources, such as food, toys and attention from people. A stable hierarchy in which each individual knows and accepts his rank provides dogs with a sense of comfort and belonging. Conflicts arise between household dogs when there is instability in the social structure; that is, when the ranking of each dog is not clear or is in contention. Dogs may warn each other initially by snarling, growling or snapping, but not causing injury. However, the conflict may sometimes intensify into prolonged bouts of dangerous fighting, which may result in one or both dogs being becoming injured.

Getting Professional Help
Ongoing canine rivalry is potentially dangerous. Dogs or human family members could be severely injured as a result of fighting. Because resolving rivalry problems requires managing the dogs’ somewhat complex social behaviors, it’s often necessary for owners to obtain assistance from a professional animal behaviorist. Certified animal behaviorists are trained to observe, interpret and modify animal behavior.

Why Conflict Occurs
Conflicts between household dogs develop for a wide variety of reasons. Conflicts may occur if:

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A new animal has been introduced to the household.
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A resident animal has died or no longer lives in the house.
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A resident animal is re-introduced after an absence.
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A young dog reaches social maturity, which is usually between 10 months and 2 years of age, and challenges the established higher-ranking dog.
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A high-ranking dog ages or becomes ill and cannot maintain his higher status.

Understanding Status Seeking Behavior and Social Structure
The dogs’ positions in the hierarchy are determined by the outcome of their interactions. The results of this complex and dynamic process will depend on the dogs themselves, without regard to your preferences. Any attempt on your part to interfere may result in increased conflict.

How dominance is established:
Dogs usually determine their social ranking through a series of behaviors, which include body postures and vocalizations that don’t result in injury. Examples of these behaviors are one dog “standing over” another by placing his paws or neck on the shoulders of the other, mounting, lip licking or rolling over onto the back. Some dogs may take toys away from other dogs, insist on being petted first or exercise control over other resources. However, because of past experiences, inadequate socialization or genetic tendencies, some dogs may escalate these displays into aggression with very little warning.

The Social Structure:
Do not attempt to influence or define the dogs’ rankings by treating them equally or by preventing a higher-ranking dog from asserting his position over another dog. The social hierarchy of the dogs is dynamic and complex, so even attempts to “support the dominant dog” may be counter productive. The dogs should be allowed to determine control of resources, such as toys and favorite sleeping places, amongst themselves. As much as possible, refrain from interfering in the dogs’ interactions with each other. But most importantly, establish yourself at the top of the hierarchy. Practicing “Nothing in Life is Free” is an easy and non-confrontational way to establish leadership by taking ultimate control of all resources the dogs find valuable. If your position as leader is clear, it will help the dogs sort out their lower places in the social structure more peacefully.

Breaking up a fight:
If you need to break up a fight, do so by squirting the dogs with water or making a loud noise to try and interrupt them. Never attempt to break up a dog fight by grabbing the dogs by their collars or getting any part of yourself in between them. Touching dogs while they are fighting can result in what is called “redirected aggression,” where a dog may bite you because he thinks you are part of the conflict. If you’ve had a dog fight, contact your veterinarian for a referral to a professional animal behaviorist.

What You Can Do To Help

If the dogs involved are intact males or females, spay or neuter both dogs.

Make sure that all of the humans in your household are at the top of the hierarchy by practicing “Nothing in Life is Free.”

Establish fair rules and enforce them consistently. This helps all the dogs feel more secure and also reinforces your role as leader. With the help of a professional animal behaviorist, elicit and reinforce non-aggressive behaviors using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques. These procedures must be designed and tailored to specifically meet the needs of each individual case and require professional in-home help. Punishment will not resolve the issue and can actually make it worse. You should be aware that if you respond to this type of problem inappropriately, you run the risk of intensifying the problem and potentially causing injury to yourself and/or your dogs.

Dog owner responsibility

Man’s best friend can become his visitor’s enemy. So, if you are a dog owner take steps to avoid a very preventable injury to your visitor and very expensive injury lawsuit. If you are a visitor injured by the dog’s behavior, then you have the right to compensation for damages.

Recently, in the U.S., a New Jersey Superior Court in Mercer County awarded $100,000 in damages to a UPS driver for injuries he suffered while trying to deliver a package. The homeowners’ dog was roaming alone loose on the property, had a history of viciousness, went at the driver, and the driver severely and permanently injured his knee trying to escape.

Also recently, an unrestrained dog jumped out of its owner’s car window and viciously attacked a woman and her dog. The attacking dog was reported to be a repeat offender.


Depending on the which province or state you live in, in both Canada and the U.S., dog owners can be held liable, or financially responsible, for injuries caused by their dog’s behavior in three possible and very common scenarios.

First, in New Jersey for example, the law says dog owners, and only the owners, are strictly liable for injuries caused by their dog’s bite, so long as the victim was lawfully on the property and regardless of the dog’s history. However, if the dog has a vicious propensity that the owner knew or should have known, then the dog’s owner or even the dog’s keeper are responsible for any injuries caused by the dog – even if not caused by biting and biting was not involved in the incident. Vicious propensity can be proven simply by the dog’s history of biting, jumping, chasing, scratching, or even being overly affectionate or playful. “Down boy!” And, third, even if the dog did not bite and did not have a vicious propensity, then the owner or keeper may be liable for injuries because they failed to exercise a reasonable degree of care for the safety of others.

Owners have a duty to provide safe premises for those invited onto its property and a duty to control their dogs. It is considered dangerous to allow a dog on your property unleashed, unrestrained or unfenced, or to roam free, unsupervised or in an area where it is likely to encounter strangers. At least a clear warning of the dog’s presence should be posted. People visit for a variety of legitimate reasons every day: Mail carriers, newspaper carriers, package deliverers, utility & maintenance workers, fundraisers, friends and family. Knowing this, owners must anticipate their dog’s behavior. Dogs protect their turf. They investigate strangers. They approach and greet anyone who enters their turf. Unless the dog is responsibly controlled, preventable injuries are likely to happen.

Even friendly dogs can cause serious injury – unintentionally. A big, friendly dog that gets excited when visitors arrive can knock the visitor down, wrench their back, twist their ankle, or otherwise “kill” them with kindness and curiosity. Just the sight of a large dog on the loose and coming toward a visitor can frighten them into hasty escape and injury. Not everyone shares enthusiasm for dogs, especially a 100-pound German Shepard rushing to say “Hello” … or “Get lost”. And that’s their right.

When dog owners fail to exercise care and visitors are injured, people’s lives can be ruined and courts will impose substantial money damages to compensate victims. Compensation has been recovered for injuries when someone was running from a dog, when someone fell after being chased by a dog, or when someone was knocked to the ground by a dog.

Owning a dog carries special responsibility to ensure others’ safety. If you are a delivery person, newspaper carrier, utility worker, or any visitor to another’s property where a dog is present, and are injured by the dog, you have a right to recover money damages under the law.

What to do when your dog eats poop

Poop-eating (coprophagia) is generally a natural behaviour in dogs but unfortunately one that can be more than a little disgusting. Let’s face it, dogs are renowned for their flexible palates, and to them, poop is just another taste sensation. Frozen feces, or poopsicles, are an especially alluring snack. Puppies are the most frequent culprits, and owners take heart, they will usually grow out of this habit with a few precautionary measures. Dogs over one year old that have developed this habit can be a little harder to discourage.

Why do they do it?

Dogs are hard-wired to explore any and all potential food resources in their environment. This is especially true of puppies. Feces is very similar in texture to the regurgitated food they got from mom. Breeding females, as well, are naturally inclined to do their own "scooping" as they would normally clean up after their pups in the den. In addition, most dogs feel some urge to keep their territory or den clean, especially if they have been scolded for leaving a mess before. For some dogs, it is also a way to garner attention from an owner or to alleviate stress.

A poor quality diet or one that a dog is unable to digest easily might encourage your dog to give his poop a second round. In households where both dogs and cats are present, dogs may eat cat feces. Cat feces is more nutritious than dog feces, since cats are less efficient at digesting their food. Cat food is also higher in protein than dog food and so cat poop contains many extra nutrients. That being said, there are some cases when coprophagia indicates a greater health problem, such as pancreatic insufficiency, specific nutrient deficiencies, or plain old starvation. A dog that is eating a lot of food can still starve if the food is missing important nutrients. In these cases the dog will lose weight or develop other symptoms over time.

Is it harmful?

On the whole, the biggest consequence of coprophagia is that we humans find it revolting. A dog eating its own poop is unlikely to have any harmful effects. Many owners worry about infectious diseases, but most healthy, vaccinated dogs are at a low risk for picking up illnesses this way. Snacking indiscriminately on neighbourhood poop does increase a dog’s chances of picking up worms (especially if there are cats that hunt in the area), but a standard preventative and treatment program will keep this from affecting your dog’s health. For example, many heartworm medications will also kill some types of intestinal worms, and fecal screening for intestinal parasites should be done twice a year at your vet’s office. Keep in mind that your dog will probably be exposed to most parasites in your community whether he is actually taste-testing or just sniffing around.

Something that is of concern when dogs eat cat poop is that they might end up regularly swallowing a side of kitty litter, which is serious in large quantities, especially if the absorbent (clumping) litter expands in the gut. A dog with a belly full of kitty litter can sometimes become severely ill and might end up at the vet with vomiting or diarrhea. The consumed cat litter can be difficult to remove even with surgery, as it can scatter throughout the digestive tract.

How do I stop it?

In all cases, reducing temptation is the quickest solution. Scoop your yard frequently, keep Fido on a short leash in that poop-riddled park, and put the cat box out of reach. The kitty litter may need to be moved onto a higher surface or put in a room with a baby gate. A covered cat box might be all that is needed if the dog is much larger than the cat.

Quite often, a change to a high quality, high protein, low carbohydrate and low fat diet will do the trick. Commercially available additives are sold in pet stores that claim to make poop less palatable. Many owners find that a teaspoon of canned spinach, pineapple, or a little meat tenderizer works equally well.

Some owners will sprinkle hot sauce or pepper onto the poop in the yard (not on the food!). Keep in mind that Fido can easily sniff out which poops are booby-trapped, so this method might not work as well for dogs that prefer to "eat out" while on walks. Of course it makes sense to get advice from your veterinarian or trainer for help in solving this issue if you cannot.

Although you may wish to train your dog not to use some areas of your house or yard as a toilet, never scold your dog for defecating. Promptly remove him to an appropriate location and praise him when he gets it right. Don’t scold him for poop-eating, either, as even negative attention can be seen as a reward. If stress is the reason for your dog’s new habit, hopefully an end to the stress will result in an end to the habit.

Above all, remember that your dog is performing a behaviour that is natural, and even rewarding to him: to a dog, potentially delicious. Punishment is not always enough to counteract his instincts, and can sometimes reinforce them. Removal of temptation and reward for preferred behaviours are always your best training tools.

Clicker Training of Dogs

A clicker is a small handheld noisemaker that makes a distinct “click” when it is pressed. Clicker training is a subset or restricted application of OPERANT CONDITIONING.

Clicker training is merely a tool that is used in operant conditioning. A clicker has also been called a bridge or a marker. Clicker training has been successfully used in animal training over the last couple of decades. Over 140 different species have been successfully “clicker trained”. Many of the animals you have seen in movies/theatrical appearances or commercials have been clicker trained.

To put it very basically, whenever an animal performs a desired action, the handler should immediately click with a hand held clicker, then deliver a reward the animal desires (such as a tasty treat). The animal will associate the click as a marker that clues the animal when it does a specific action, they will get a reward.

What is Operant Conditioning (O C) ?

OC states that much of behavior is under control of it’s consequences. (OC forms an association between doing a particular behavior and a consequence). There are four possible consequences to any behavior. They are:

1.Something Good can start or be presented (positive reinforcement)
2.Something Good can end or be taken away (negative punishment)
3.Something Bad can start or be presented (positive punishment) 4.Something Bad can end or be taken away (negative reinforcement)

Consequences have to be immediate or clearly linked to the behavior. With verbal humans, we can explain the connection between the consequence and the behavior, even if they are separated by a long length of time. For example, you might tell a friend that you'll buy dinner for them since they helped you work on your car last week or a parent might explain that the child can't go to the movies because of his bad grades. With very young children, other humans who don't have verbal skills, and animals, you can't explain the connection between the consequence and the behavior. For the animal, the consequence has to be immediate. The way to work around this need for immediacy is to use a bridge (a clicker) to “mark” a behavior and then deliver the consequence.

What is positive reinforcement?

Positive reinforcement is the use of rewards (whatever an animal desires, such as food or a favorite toy) to get an animal to continually perform a desired behavior, such as sitting, laying down or shaking a paw. Rewards have to
be relevant (valuable) to the particular animal. Some dogs may love a particular brand of treat while others may turn their noses up at it.

What is negative reinforcement?

Negative reinforcement is when you take away something bad to get a desired behavior to increase. When you get into a car, and the seatbelt warning alarm makes a continued high pitch ring until you fasten your seat belt, the car
manufacturers are using negative reinforcement. The alarm stops once you fasten your seat belt, which will increase the likely hood of you fastening the seatbelt in the future. Negative reinforcement can lead to fear responses in an animal and can actually “shut” the animal down. It is NOT an appropriate tool to use in training anything new to your animal.

What is positive punishment?

Positive punishment is the use of verbal scolding or physical ‘punishment’ to get an animal to stop doing an undesirable behavior. Positive punishment can lead to aggression, as it promotes a fear-based response in an animal. Animals learn quicker by being rewarded for a particular action rather than being punished.

What is negative punishment?

Negative Punishment is taking away an anticipated reward. An example would be picking up the dog’s leash to go for a walk but putting it down the second the dog jumps or barks at you. Negative punishment can be used to teach self
control in animals as it usually only results in some frustration at first until the animal understands he can make the “good” thing come back by acting
appropriately.

My dog is afraid of the clicker

If you notice the animal is shying away from the click (the sound is unfamiliar and may frighten a stressed out dog), you can either muffle the sound so that it is not as loud, or discontinue the clicker session (if the animal seems to be very stressed, tail tucked, fearful body language, avoiding). Some ways of muffling the ‘click’ are as follows:
• Hide the clicker behind your back
• Place the clicker in your pocket. Click from
inside your pocket.
• Wrap the clicker in a small towel

Do I have to click and treat every time?

Yes!!! You are conditioning your dog to respond to the clicker and then you will be using the clicker to mark behaviors. Remember to click and immediately reward after each successful behavior that you are trying to teach. Do NOT click and then fudge on the reward. You MUST deliver a reward to the animal every time you click. Do NOT click multiple times in a row and then offer one single reward. The ratio is one click = one reward. Do
NOT point the clicker at your dog like a remote control. Hold your hand casually at your side and click when your dog does something you want to reinforce (don’t forget to immediately reward the dog as well!)

Why Can't I use my voice instead of the clicker?

The “click” from a clicker is a very distinguishable sound. The click is non-emotional, has the same pitch and tone and is different than other sounds
in the environment. Voices vary widely from person to person. The click will stay the same no matter who uses the clicker.

Dog poops in the house

Ask any pet owner – there are few surprises as unpleasant as finding a pile of Rover’s doggie-doo on the living room carpet. The resultant mess and odours are off-putting enough, but the most important potential consequence of housesoiling is the havoc it wreaks on the relationship between dog and master. Understandably, defecation in the house is poorly tolerated by owners – much more so than urination – and may lead them to seriously consider relinquishing the pet. This is an unfortunate scenario that owners and veterinarians must strive to avoid, especially since the prognosis for resolution of the behaviour is often quite good, depending on the underlying cause.

Elimination is defined as ‘inappropriate’ whenever a pet has had ample opportunity to relieve itself in a designated area, yet continues to do so indoors.

Although the net result is the same – poo on your new beige carpet – the causes are numerous, and diverse. Furthermore, the nature of the problem, be it medical or behavioural, has a direct bearing on the likelihood of successful treatment. For this reason, the first task in working up any dog that has started to defecate indoors is differentiating between medical versus behavioural causes.

Medical Causes

When an otherwise housebroken and well-behaved mature dog is found to be leaving ‘number two’s’ around the home, it may be the result of an increased urgency and / or frequency of needing to relieve itself. Conditions such as colitis (inflammation and irritation of the large intestine) may manifest in this way. Organisms causing diarrhea, such as parasitic worms, bacteria, and viruses, may also be responsible for increasing the fluid volume of stool and the urgency to defecate in between walking times. Puppies, as well as immunocompromised and debilitated dogs, are particularly vulnerable to some of these diarrhea-causing pathogens. This last point underscores the importance of regular preventative deworming and timely vaccination of puppies (and adults), according to your veterinarian’s advice.

Your vet is able to easily check stool samples for microscopic evidence of parasites and their eggs, or ‘ova’. Multiple samples may be needed though, since many parasites’ ova are shed in feces inconsistently, and as such, may not appear in every successive sample even though they are cause of the infection. Feces may also be tested to rule out other infectious causes of diarrhea. Treatment usually consists of supportive care (such as fluids for dehydration associated with diarrhea) and antibiotics or antiparasitic medications. Colitis is managed according to its cause, be it allergic, infectious, or otherwise.

Dogs suffering from constipation or otherwise difficult or painful defecation (“dyschezia”) for a variety of causes may not make full use of their bathroom time outside, and may therefore find themselves having to defecate at inappropriate times and locations. Conditions affecting the hind end are often to blame, ranging from inflammation or infection of the anal sacs to orthopedic problems such as arthritis and hip dysplasia, which make it uncomfortable to squat down to defecate. A thorough history, including questions about the appearance and consistency of your dog’s stool, physical exam, and fecal testing by your vet will aid in sorting out gastrointestinal from orthopedic causes. Again, treatment will be determined by the underlying cause of the difficulty in defecating.

Another medical cause for inappropriate elimination in dogs is incontinence, a condition in which the dog simply cannot control its bowel movements, and may not even be aware that it is defecating at all. Incontinence is a neurological problem, and as such can be more complex and carry a less favourable prognosis for cure, especially in older pets with a chronic history or in spinal injury patients. Your veterinarian will perform a thorough neurological exam of your dog to rule in or out nervous system involvement. Another neurological basis for housesoiling is cognitive dysfunction (CD), akin to dementia in people. This is often seen in the geriatric dog population, as mental function declines and awareness of their surroundings decreases, such that the dog loses any concept of the inappropriateness of its behaviour. Cognitive dysfunction is the result of a degenerative process occurring in the brain, so it is slowly progressive. However, your vet is still able to offer some therapeutic options that may slow these often inevitable changes. Ask your vet about the latest medications available to manage CD.

Behavioural Causes

When the results of your dog’s physical exam, lab tests, and fecal analysis yield no evidence of physiological causes of inappropriate defecation, the root of the problem is often times found to be a behavioural one. A common cause of housesoiling is inadequate housebreaking training. This topic is discussed in more detail in the Pets.ca bulletin board here.

Changes in feeding or walking schedule can sometimes account for a recent onset of indoor defecation by a usually well-behaved dog. Dogs, like people, will often relieve themselves at more or less predictable intervals following meals. Take some time to observe these intervals and ensure that your dog is afforded the opportunity to relieve himself outside at the times he is most likely to have to go. Feeding two or three small meals a day is more likely to allow owners to predict, and therefore accommodate, their dogs’ defecation habits than leaving out a bowl of food all day long for occasional, unpredictable grazing.

If changes in your shifts at work mean you will be away from the house for longer periods of time than usual, ensure that any feces that will inevitably be passed over that time will end up in a location of your choice. Laying newspapers or ‘pee-pads’ down in a tiled room in the house makes clean-up of the unavoidable accidents easier, and provides an appropriate outlet for your pet’s bathroom urges. Crating your dog may also be a good option, as it takes advantage of dogs’ natural aversion to soiling where they sleep. Leaving any dog in a crate for too long, however, will eventually lead to it soiling its living quarters, which is upsetting for the dog. It should therefore be emphasized that crates are in no way a replacement for conscientious care and walking of a dog.

The Bottom Line

While nobody wants to return home from a long day to find their home ‘redecorated’ by their dog’s poo, owners should take heart that housesoiling can often be a treatable, transient problem. Working with your vet to pin the cause down as either medical or behavioural is key. Only then can treatments can be devised accordingly and a reasonable prognosis given for success. The problem can initially be a frustrating one but remember…with some patience and dedication, a dog leaving number two’s in the house may well return to being your number one pet.

Stop Dog Barking

To a dog, loud short words like “no!”, “shut up!”, “don’t bark!” sound just like barks. Think of it this way. The dog barks to signal a potential problem. Now you (who are suppose it to be the leader of the pack) come over and bark too. This clearly indicates that you agree that this is the right time to sound the alarm….

The procedure worked out by wild canines to stop barking is really quite simple. The pack leader, the puppy's mother, or any pack member who is obviously higher in dominance ranking can give the signal for silence. To quiet barking, the dominant animal places its mouth over the offender's muzzle, without actually biting, and then gives a short, low, and breathy growl. The low growl will not be heard very far, and is short in duration. The mouth over the muzzle is not actually inflicting pain, so there is no yelping or attempt to escape. Silence usually follows immediately.

Humans can mimic this behavior as a simple way to tell a dog to stop barking when it is near you. With your dog sitting at your left side, slip the fingers of your left hand under the collar at the back of the dog's neck. Pull up on the collar with your left hand, while your right hand folds over the top of the dog's muzzle and presses down. In a quiet, businesslike and unemotional tone, you simply say, "a Quiet." You repeat this silencing maneuver whenever it is necessary. Depending upon the breed, it may take anywhere from two to a couple of dozen repetitions to associate the calmly stated command " “Quiet" with an end to barking.

What you have done in this instance is to effectively copy the way in which the pack leader will silence a noisy puppy or other pack member. Your left hand on the collar is simply immobilizes the head. Your right hand serves the same function and communicates the same message as the leader's mouth over the noisy animal's muzzle. The softly spoken, "Quiet" mimics the short, low, breathy growl.

Be sure, however, that you use this procedure to stop a dog from barking only when barking is unnecessary, as in an obedience class or a public place. Remember that we specifically bred dogs to bark, so if your dog sounds the alarm at the approach of a stranger, or even at the sight of the cat outside your window, don't correct him. If there is no cause for any action, just call him to your side and give him a quick pet or rub. By barking, your dog is only doing the job we designed him to do thousands of years ago….

Train a Cat to Use a Toilet

Cats are adorable creatures - all cat lovers will agree with that. They make excellent human companions and, like dogs, are also considered by many as man's best friend. Cute, cuddly, and companionable, these domesticated felines can easily melt anybody's heart. They can entertain you with their sweet little tricks and make you laugh out loud with their crazy antics. Yes, cats are absolutely charming, but not all the time. You have to admit, endearing as they are, cats also do things that can annoy you out of your wits such as scratching you wood furniture, biting your curtain tassels, and, at worst, pooping on your brand new carpet.

The good news is that cats are smart and curious animals. For this reason, they can be trained to do several things that could make your life easier. Just one of the things you can teach your little feline friend to do is to use the toilet. If you want your cat to be like Jack Byrnes' Himalayan cat in "Meet the Parents" then you should start thinking about training your kitty to use the toilet now. As opposed to what some people think, potty training cats is not hard to do. All you need is plenty of patience and a strong determination. And oh, you will also need a litter box and a roll of wax paper.

If your cat already knows how to use the litter box, then that makes the task of getting them to use the toilet 50% easier. Since cats are clean creatures by nature, chances are that they will find pooping in the toilet more desirable than what they were initially accustomed to. The trick in potty training a cat is to do it gradually. Depending on your cat's personality, the process of toilet training can take several days to a few weeks. There's no point in hastening the training because cats take time to learn and get used to the new pooping system.

Start the potty training by moving your cat's litter box near a toilet. After you do this, make sure your cat knows where to find its litter box. Let your cat become familiar with the new location of its litter box. After you have done this, the next thing to do is to move the litter box inch by inch towards the toilet bowl for the subsequent days until it ends up right next to the bowl. While inching the litter box towards the toilet bowl, you should also reduce the amount of litter used bit by bit.

The next goal is to get the cat to sit on the toilet bowl. You can do this by progressively adding a book under a litter box until it's already elevated to the same height as the toilet bowl. When you've already done this, raise the toilet seat and tape a sheet of wax paper over it. The wax paper should be big enough to cover the hole. Then, lower the seat and gradually move the litter box an inch towards the seat over the following days. Do this until the litter box is right over the toilet seat. Don't forget to reduce the amount of litter every time you move the litter box towards the seat until there's already none left. When you've done this, discard the box and cut an inch-wide hole in the middle of the wax paper. In the succeeding days, gradually widen the wax paper's hole until it becomes as big as that of the toilet seat. By the time you are done with this last step, congratulations, you now have a toilet-trained cat.