Preparing for Your New Pet

Before you bring your new friend home, it's best to be prepared to prevent unnecessary confusion and stress.

• Establish the rules. Decide who's responsible for what: grooming, feeding, exercising, cleaning, play-time, and so on. Also establish whether or not there will be areas that are "off-limits" for your new pet. For example, you may not want your pet to sleep on the bed.

• Have all the necessary supplies ready. Examples are food, food and water bowls, leash or harness, collar and identification, brush, and so on. Take a look at the cat budget or the dog budget for more information.

• Pet-proof your home. Some things you may want to consider include:

* Lock away household chemicals, such as cleansers, insecticide, antifreeze, and others. Animals are especially attracted to antifreeze; be sure to clean up spills immediately and keep the rest out of reach as even a small amount can be fatal.

* Place houseplants out of reach. Many houseplants are poisonous.

* Have separate areas for your new pet and any existing pets. Pets need to be introduced to one another slowly; be sure you have an extra room or a kennel so that your pets can be separated until they have grown accustomed to each other.

* Tie electrical cords out of the way, if you can. Dogs and cats can chew on electrical cords - or even catch them while walking (or running!) around, causing lamps, TVs, radios, etc. to fall.

* Keep doors closed - this includes the doors to your washer and dryer, your closets, the cupboards ... inquisitive little animals can sneak in just about anywhere!

* Keep household trinkets out of your pet's reach. Stuff like garbage, medicine, pins, elastics, thread, needles, and so on should be placed out of the way.

• Make sure everyone knows how to properly handle your pet. Everyone should know how to safely pick up your pet. Also emphasize certain rules such as your pet should never be disturbed while eating.

• Keep other pets away at first. Your new pet may be nervous ... help him or her feel more comfortable by keeping your other pets confined until you are ready to slowly introduce them.

White Cats

White cats, like all white animals in general, are both valuable – and vulnerable. The white of their coat is not a real colour but rather the absence of colour, which also means absence of protection from the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays. It is the variety and distribution of natural “dyes” in an animal’s skin and fur that explain different coat colours and patterns. One of these dyes is melanin, the chief protector of skin against ultraviolet radiation. The skin of white cats has either no melanin at all or very little of it, which is why they are far more vulnerable to sunburn and cancer of the skin than coloured cats. The “classical” wild-type cat is a brown tabby, which combines optimal protection from the sun with a camouflage pattern that hides it from predators. When we consider that cats evolved as desert animals that spend much of their time under the blazing sun, it is fascinating that white cats exist at all. They are clearly an example of how centuries of breeding have produced animals that are both stunningly beautiful and dependent on humans for their continued survival and protection.

Such protection involves, first and foremost, keeping a white cat out of the sun or limiting its exposure to the sun. The best way to do this is to raise a white kitten strictly indoors so that it is not tempted to go outside as an adult. Spaying or neutering the cat is part and parcel of an indoor lifestyle since intact animals are driven to go outside in search of a partner, and torment themselves and their owners when confined indoors. However, if a white cat has been adopted as an adult and is already used to spending time outdoors, chances are that it will be miserable and restless if not allowed to do so, especially in the short term. If the cat is happy to simply be outdoors and does not insist on roaming, it can be tethered to a tree or post in a shaded area and supervised as it watches birds and chills out. For cats that are used to coming and going, applying sun-block cream to the ear rims as well as the nose, eyelids and lips can go a long way toward protection, if the owner is able to do this and the cat does not protest. If possible, the cat’s outdoor time should be restricted to late afternoon and evening hours, avoiding the morning and early afternoon when the sun is at its harshest.

Another method tried by some owners is tattooing ear rims, the area most likely to develop sunburn and skin cancer. A veterinarian may inject artificial dye in place of the protective melanin which white cats lack. This method has at least two drawbacks. First, the dye is injected in spots and does not spread evenly, with the skin between the spots remaining unprotected. Secondly, the dye ends up under the surface layer of the skin, the layer most susceptible to sunburn and cancer, which is thereby left unprotected.

In the absence of protection, and often in spite of it, white cats exposed to the sun will almost certainly develop sunburns which, with repeated exposure, will likely become cancerous. Signs to look for are reddened bumps on the ear rims or around the nose, eyes and lips. Unlike insect bites or allergic reactions, these bumps are seldom if at all itchy. The sooner such a cat is treated by a veterinarian, the better the chances of controlling the skin cancer, since this form of skin cancer often responds well to treatment. This is, of course, only a temporary solution if the cat remains exposed to the sun.

Not all white cats are created equal. Many come in “shades” of white. While most of their coat is indeed white, the fur on the tips of their ears and around the face and feet can be a pale cream or orange. This would be an extreme case of a point pattern, with Siamese and Himalayan cats representing the classical pattern. Interestingly, the darker colour at the tips of the ears, nose and feet in these cats develops because of lower body temperature over those areas. Such “off-white” cats can sometimes develop dark spots on their lips or nose, especially at a young age. This is very common among orange cats, and is normal as long as these spots are flat and the skin is otherwise unchanged. Other cats can be a very light, silvery gray with darker fur around their eyes; this is common in Persian cats.

Cats with a pure snow-white coat are a varied population based on their eye colour. For instance, a white cat with blue eyes is missing surface “dye” in its eyes as well as its coat: blue eyes in an adult cat mean lack of colour in the upper layers of the iris. What appears blue is really black, the result of the melanin (black dye) in the deeper layer of the iris without overlay of other colours in the top layers. Such cats are also usually deaf, since the gene responsible for iris colour goes hand in hand with the gene responsible for hearing. Deaf cats need extra care for obvious reasons: outside of their home, they are vulnerable to approaching dangers such as cars or aggressive dogs or other predators. If they go outside, they must be walked on a leash or tethered and kept under very close supervision. In addition, deaf cats make poor mothers since they cannot hear the mewing of their kittens.

The kittens of two white blue-eyed cats do not always resemble their parents: some can have coloured fur as well as coloured eyes. Likewise, two coloured cats whose ancestors included white cats can have white kittens among their offspring. These seemingly unexpected results are due to the way genes come together to make a new generation of animals. Your veterinarian or an experienced and reputable breeder will be able to give you an idea of what colours of kittens to expect from two cats whose ancestry is known.

Many white cats have a blue and a green eye. Unlike blue, green means presence of colour; hence these cats are deaf in only one ear – but it is not necessarily on the same side as the blue eye. Other white cats have orange eyes, which is also due to a colour in the upper layers of the eye, above the black melanin. Albinos, or animals with complete lack of colour or melanin in their skin, fur or eyes (their eyes appear red because you can see through the completely colourless outer layers to the blood vessels in the iris), are exceedingly rare among cats. Thus white cats, when properly cared for, combine the beauty of a snow-white coat with variation in eye colour which means protection of the eye.

Keeping Your Cat Safe at Home

* Be aware of the plants you have in your house and in your yard, if your cat is permitted outside (CFA advocates cats being kept indoors at all times). The ingestion of azalea, oleander, easter lily, or yew plant material by a cat could be fatal.
* When cleaning your house, never allow your cat access to the area where cleaning agents are used or stored. Cleaning agents have a variety of properties; from those that could just irritate the gastrointestinal tract to those that have a corrosive action and can chemically burn the sensitive mucous membranes of the mouth, esophagus, and stomach.
* When using rat or mouse baits, ant or roach traps, or snail and slug baits, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your cats. Most baits contain sweet smelling inert ingredients, which can be very attractive to your cat.
* Never give your cat any medications unless under the directions of veterinarian. Many medications that are used safely in humans can be deadly when used inappropriately. One extra strength acetaminophen tablet (500mg) can kill a 7 pound cat.
* Keep all prescription and over the counter drugs out of reach of your cats. Pain killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, antidepressants, and diet pills are common examples of human medication that could be potentially lethal even in small dosages. Only one half of a 200mg naproxen tablet could cause stomach ulcers in cats.
* Never leave chocolates unattended. Approximately one half ounce of baking chocolate per pound body weight or less can cause clinical signs of toxicity.
* Many common household items have been shown to be lethal in certain species, including felines. Miscellaneous items that are highly toxic even in low quantities include pennies (high concentration of zinc), mothballs (contain naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene - one or two balls can be life threatening in most species), potpourri oils, fabric softener sheets, automatic dish detergents (contain cationic detergents which could cause corrosive lesions), batteries (contain acids or alkali which can also cause corrosive lesions), homemade play dough (contains high quantity of salt), winter heat source agents like hand or foot warmers (contain high levels of iron), cigarettes, coffee grounds, and alcoholic drinks.
* All automotive products such as oil, gasoline, and antifreeze should be stored in areas away from cat access. As little as one teaspoon of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) can be deadly in a 7lb cat.
* Before buying or using flea products on your cat or in your household, contact your veterinarian to discuss what types of flea products she/he would recommend for your pet. Read ALL information before using a product on your cat or in your home. Always follow label instructions. When a product is labeled "for use in dogs only" this means that the product should NEVER be applied to cats. When using a fogger or a house spray, make sure to remove all cats from the area for the time period specified on the container.
* When treating your lawn or garden with fertilizers, herbicides, or insecticides, always keep your cats away from the area until the area dries completely. Discuss usage of products with the manufacturer of the products to be used. Always store such products in an area that will ensure no cat exposure.

Dog lice

What is dog lice? Are they the same type of lice that affect humans? What is the most effective way of getting rid of dog lice?

Sometimes even a clean, well-groomed dog can play a host to different types of unwanted guests. One of these unwanted visitors is called dog lice. Dog lice infestation is not common among dogs in this country, especially those that live in a clean environment and get proper care and attention.

However, you should still be aware of their symptoms and know how to deal with the problem should it occur. Dog lice causes severe irritation and illness to your dog. In addition, dog lice carries disease and complications such as anemia.

Dog lice are flat, gray, wingless parasites that are about a twelfth of an inch long. Dog lice are very slow movers. In fact, they hardly move at all. Dog lice only affect the dogs in your home and are not capable of surviving off of cats and humans.

There are two types of dog lice that exist: The first type of dog lice concentrates on biting the skin and feeding on skin flakes; the other type of dog lice feed on your dog's blood. Blood sucking lice causes severe irritation because they penetrate the skin of your dog in order to feed.

Signs that your dog is infected with dog lice are heavy, intense scratching, and irritation that often results in bald patches. Dog lice are usually found on the area around the ears, neck, shoulders, and anus. Although dog lice are relatively large, you are more likely to spot their eggs in your dog's hair. Lice eggs (nits) are easier to see because they are attached to the dog's hair and look like white tiny flakes of dust.

Treating dog lice is relatively simple and easy due to the fact that they have not built up a resistance to insecticides. Your vet will more likely recommend an insecticide spray or bath to kill them. He may require you to cut off matted hair and wash your dog about once every week with the insecticide.

This procedure is then repeated until the itching is gone and there are no more visible lice eggs. If you have a puppy that is infected with lice, consult your vet first before starting on any kind of pesticide treatment or other type of medication.

To prevent further lice infestation and make sure that all the lice eggs have been completely eliminated, it is a wise idea to throw away all bedding that your dog has lain on during lice infestation and to disinfect the area where he sleeps.

Dog lice - When it is time to see the vet

Chances are that you have noticed lately that your dog's new favorite hobby is scratching himself in at least three places at once. When you part his coat to examine what is causing the itch and excessive scratching, you notice tiny white dust-like particles that are attached to the hair shafts. What are these tiny particles and why are they causing your dog to itch?

Your dog is suffering from lice infestation. Dog lice are six legged parasites that feed either on your dog's flesh or their blood, triggering intense itchy reactions. The tiny white particles that are attached to his hair are lice eggs or nits. Although dogs rarely get lice and it is actually more common for people to get human lice, dog lice is still out there and our dogs are not immune to them.
One tiny louse cannot kill your dog, but once that tiny louse decides to invite all his louse friends to live off of your dog, then your pet could literally be eaten alive. If your dog is suffering from a severe case of lice, he could lose about one quarter of his blood volume within months, causing severe anemia or shock.

Can cats be trained to do things?

What! Training and cats in the same sentence? We all know that cats are independent, can even sometimes be just a touch aloof, and interact with us on their terms. How can such royal pets be trained? Many just assume a cat cannot be trained to perform even simple tasks.

Cats are actually able to learn some basic tasks, but understanding their psychology is important. Cats respond to praise very well, and will learn tasks that bring them a suitable reward. They also have short attention spans; fetching a Frisbee® or stick might keep a Labrador retriever engaged for a whole afternoon, but a typical feline play or training session might continue for 5 to 10 minutes. Playing "catch the furry toy ball" is of real interest to cats, and this is one simple game that can benefit the cat by increasing their exercise and is of high entertainment value. To reinforce their fetching behaviour, a food treat and praise (words, and petting) can be given each time they return the toy. For some cats, the food treat might sidetrack them, so for these cats, just praise and the next toy toss will suffice. Start with short distances and give rewards each time the cat cooperates. Make play sessions very short so that they are less likely to get bored and march off. End the session as soon as you see the first hint of tiring out.

Cats can be taught to relieve themselves using the household human facilities if the owner wishes. Some cats do not appear to take to toilet training, but most can be successfully trained with a lot of patience. The cat appreciates the clean facility, but may balk a bit because they were taught by their mother to scratch their stool into sand, litter or soil. Obviously, young cats that have not yet got in the habit of going in the box for a long period are easier to transition but cats have been trained even after maturity. One can purchase special potty training kits for cats, but a homemade system works just fine too. Start by putting the box near the toilet. After a few weeks, start to raise it gradually stepwise off the floor, using a solid support system (you don't want the cat to jump in and have it fall off the support and spook him!), and continue this for a few weeks. Finally, place the box on the toilet (lid up, seat down) and when this is comfortable, you are ready to start with the human toilet surface. Take a heavy-duty foil turkey roaster pan, and securely tape it under the seat onto the toilet base. Initially, put a bit of litter in the bottom of the pan under the seat hole. As he gets used to this, you can place a progressively larger hole in the tray, until he needs to stand on the toilet seat. Always leave the seat lid up so he can get at his facility!

Leash training is another skill that takes some patience, but if you are planning to offer your cat fresh air, going for a walk is an excellent way for them to get some exercise, and for you to ensure that they do not get into trouble with strays, or cars etc. Using a well-fitted harness is more secure, and will prevent him from slipping a collar or stressing the neck if the cat decides a sudden dash is in order! Some owners even teach their cat to walk along at the same time as the dog goes for a walk. Remember to keep the walks short, and praise the cat when they move forward when you call their name or another cue such as "walkies". Leash training is more easily done in kittens than with adults. If the cat appears to have tired, it is OK to pick them up to help them home! Don't expect the cat to stay neatly by your side (as you would with a trained dog). They will want to meander a bit, and may make periodic stops to gnaw a bit of grass. A walk with a cat is not a cardiovascular workout, but rather more of a parambulation!

Your veterinarian will likely have some excellent basic pet training books, and sometimes they will allow clients to sign these out. Even if they focus on dog training, the basic principles are similar.

Why "Oh My Pet"

Somebody's domain called "ohmydog" impressed me very much.

Just want a same one as my blog's name but failed, it has been occupied.

"Oh My Pet" is my plan B, anyway it's good as well.